1911 - fitting notes

Perfectionism can cause me to get lost in a fitting quagmire. Quagmires are no fun. Fortunately this corset doesn't have to be fit over the bust and it's not intended to severely reduce the waist, so the difficulties of pattering the bust curves and dealing with displaced flesh are avoided. One nice thing about this style, and the patterns we're working with for the sew along, is that we can easily change both the top and bottom edges to suit our needs. Require a bit more hip coverage? Leave the bottom edge a bit longer. You'll be tangoing the night away? Arch the bottom front edge over the legs like the second model from the left in the image below.

You can see a variety of hip lengths in this picture is from the 1911 Sears Catalog. The shortest version ends just below the bum, others continue for another inch or two. It also shows several options for shaping the top edge. That is a good reason to keep the extra inch added when tracing the pattern to the mock-up. After the corset is sewn the edge can be marked right on the fabric. Easy peasy. When I first tried on my mock-up the area above the waist was almost straight up and down, not the gradual slope from waist to bust we see on the models in the image above. When I let out the seams above the waist I not only could I breath again, I had the slight flare at the front instead of a straight, cylindrical shape. Surprisingly, the biggest change happened when I let out the back seam. That seam falls under the shoulder blades and is where a lot of flesh spillage can occur. So if you are fitting yourself by looking in a mirror remember that what you easily see in the front can be affected by what's not so easy to see in the back.

Those of you who have mock-ups that meet in the center back, take a tiny bit out of the center of each panel, say 1/4 inch. That will add up over the width of the corset resulting in a gap at the lacing. If you have a gap, but it's small, say just an inch, then shave a small amount off the center back edge, no more than 1/2 inch. That will allow a wider gap for easier lacing.

If the corset is comfortable everywhere but pulls wide open at the opening below the busk, let out the first seam from the hips down. If you had a bit of room in front just below the hip bone that's OK. The garters will help anchor the corset down and keep a smooth line.

When making alterations it's best to make one change at a time. For example, add to the hips, see how it fits, then reduce above the waist. When you make many changes at once overcorrection can quickly occur. As long the mock-up fits and is comfortable the finished corset will do the rest of the shaping.

I'm enjoying the steady work flow that I've achieved with this corset and am glad there is a schedule to stick to so I get bogged down in fitting. I'm also looking forward to cutting into the real fabric later this week. How about you? Excited to get to work on the real thing?

1911 - correct corseting

How is the fitting going? Remember that while the adjustments may seem small, an extra 1/8 inch on a seam will add 1/4 inch to one side, 1/2 inch to the entire width. So a few small changes can really add up and make a big change in the overall fit. Since we're fitting our sew along mock-ups it's the perfect time to share this article on correct corseting by Lillian Russell.

Click here to read the full article, published in the Washington Herald on December 3, 1911. Her advice is sensible, "It will not make you look any more slender if you wear a small corset;" and "a woman with the forty-two inch hips must have at least a thirty-two inch waist." She counsels against lacing tightly across the top because it makes an unsightly bulge of flesh at the back. In fact, she recommends lacing the corset looser above the waist so the hips are more suppressed, and you can see this lacing illustrated in the picture captioned "Your Corset Should Not be Tight Enough to Restrict the Movement of Your Arms."

Let's compare that to the lacing on my mock-up.

Please excuse the dust on the mirror, I swear I cleaned it and it didn't show on the other pictures I took, why the shots from the back? Anyway, I have no option of lacing looser, it is tight, tight, tight. Once I lowered my arms that unsightly bulge was present. When I let out the seam allowances at the top not only was it much more comfortable, the bulge was gone, and fabric no longer crushed under the bust. Yesterday, I mentioned leaving the added length at the top until I try on the final corset and that is one reason why. I want that small flare under the bust so I can achieve the smooth line so desired. If I cut that bit off now I've set top edge squarely under the bust, making an abrupt shift from ribs to bust, resulting in more of a capital P shape from the side. That wouldn't be the end of the world, but I'm aiming for a smooth transition and a bit of extra length at the top may help. The other reason is that once stronger fabric is used, seams reinforced, and casings sewn in, the real corset will be a much stronger garment than the mock-up. Boning can be slipped in and it will be possible to better gage that top edge.

If you're working with the post Edwardian pattern, which is a bit longer above the waist than the Corsets and Crinolines pattern, you may not need the extra length at all. The goal is a corset that works for you, so you have the final say in how it fits.

Back to Lillian, she also says people "take their ideas of what the corset is from the wooden figures in the window displaying models for commercial purposes or from the impossible fashion drawings in magazines." Good point Miss Russell.

1911 - fitting the mock-up

It's been exciting seeing the patterns and mock-ups posted on the sew along flickr group page. If you haven't already joined, please do! I've found the fitting advice I've received from readers such a help, the flickr page provides the same opportunity for all sew along participants. Don't worry if you're running behind the schedule, it's not too late to share you work no matter what stage your corset is!

Fitting time! It helps to have a friend help with fitting the corset mock-up, especially since this is a long one. But if you're working alone a mirror can serve as your second pair of eyes, and you'll have to bend and pin as best you can. You will also need a seam ripper, pins, and tailor's chalk or a soft pencil. Before putting the mock-up on it's a good idea to mark the waistline. At the center back edge of both patterns there are two notch marks, the waist line is the top one.

In fact, there should be a notch on all the pieces at the waist so simply connect them.

If you don't have a second set of hands to do the lacing getting into the mock-up may be a bit awkward, but with a long lace it's doable. Wrap the corset around you with the center back opening in front, seam allowances to the outside, and start lacing from the bottom up. Make sure you don't forget to leave loops, or bunny ears, when you reach the waist. Keep the laces loose and twist the corset so the laces are in the back. Make certain the waistline you just marked on the fabric does sit at your waist. Once the corset is properly situated pull the laces just tight enough so the waist sits is snug. Not tight! Just firmly against your body. Now take a look in the mirror. It's hard to get past those giant seam allowances, but you should be able to see a hint of the corset's shape.

Don't be concerned if there is a large gap between the center back panels. Mine was 5 inches. The final corset will be sewn of stronger fabric with reinforced seams and can be handled with more force, but this lighter fabric with it's easy to separate seams will stretch and tear if you lace it tightly. Look at the gap in the lacing. If they are way closer at the top and wider at the bottom, like a capital A, then you need to remover fabric near the top and add fabric at the hips. If the lacing makes a capital V then do the opposite, add fabric near the top and remove at the hip. If they are more or less parallel, hooray, do nothing.

To add fabric, carefully open the seam with a seam ripper and pin the new seam line adding additional fabric from the seam allowance. To remove fabric pinch the excess and pin. Once you have the alterations pinned evaluate the changes. Does the corset feel like it's going to burst at the seams? Too tight. Baggyness? Too loose. Look at the center front split below the bust, it should lie smoothly, not pull. If it is being tugged apart then the hips are too tight. You should be able to walk comfortably the corset. Don't over fit the corset. If you make the mock-up skin tight now when you lace the finished corset it will cut in at the top and bottom edges and may feel uncomfortable later. No baggyness and no pulling are what we're after, we'll sort out the top and bottom edges once we have the seams fit.

When you are satisfied with the fit take the mock-up off and mark the adjustments you've made with chalk, or pencil. Adding fabric will look like this.

Removing fabric will look like this.

Sew the alterations in using a long stitch length. Try on the mock-up again with the seam allowances to the inside now. I know, I know, on/off, on/off, it's gets tiresome. But wait until you see the fit without seam allowances in the way.

Now look at how the top and bottom edges work. If the top edge is crushed under the bustline then draw a new top edge with chalk or pencil. How is the length? Sit down on a firm chair. If it is not possible to sit without pressing the bones to the curve your body then they are too long. Make a mark about two or three fingers from the seat of the chair on your lacing, this is where the boning must end. Here it marked on my mock-up.

The length of the corset will still be longer than this, but it's important that the bones don't constantly butt up against chair seats. How does the length work otherwise? If you want to change the shape of the bottom edge draw it in. If you look closely you can see I drew in a more extreme curve to the center front on one side. I may decide make that curve, or take an entire inch off the length at the bottom later, but I'm going to leave it for now and once the real corset is sewn I'll do a quick try on and do any hem fine tuning then.

That's it for today. This is a lot of information for first time corset makers, but you have plenty of time this week to do everything. I had scheduled a second fitting for this Friday, but that is really only if needed. My guess is most of us will be able to fit our corsets well enough with this first fitting. We'll mark the alterations and transfer them to the patterns on Wednesday!

lacing strips for mock ups

I've had a few questions about what I use to lace up mock ups so I thought I'd share my lacing strips.

Pretty low tech, just folded over denim with a couple of seams to make boning channels, and some grommets. They are 13 inches long, just long enough for to use for fitting, but I often think I should make a longer set. These were made for fitting my very first corset six years ago. I pounded the grommets while sitting poolside in Carlsbad, California. Good times.

For fittings I place the folded edge along the the center back of the mock up and stitch the strip to the back panel. Since I don't use a busk on fitting toiles, I wrap the mock up around myself with the lacing strips to the front, then thread the lace through the grommets. When I reach the top I tie the laces together and twist the corset around my body until it sits properly with the laces in back, then I start cinching. It is not an elegant process. But I've found this works better than lacing the corset first and slipping it over my head. After experiencing a couple horribly claustrophobic moments with my arms pinned above my head once the corset reached my shoulders I started putting on toiles corsets the way a twelve year old puts on a bra. Has anyone figured out a better way to get into a buskless toile?

busk solution?

Thanks to all of you who had some busk solution suggestions for me. A few of you suggested a spoon busk may solve my fitting problems. That's a good idea, but the spoon busk wasn't invented until 1873, so I feel like I'll disturb the time space continuum if use a busk from the future on my 1844 corset. I realize I've already done that by using a 1950's sewing machine, but you get the point. And since this corset is illustrated without a two piece busk I want to make it without one. I tried on the mock up one more time, and I took two regular busks and slid them in the bias tape pocket.

Better. So maybe just a 1 inch wide steel down the front will be the answer. There is still plenty of fitting to be done, but this looks the right direction. I think what I should do now is sew the alterations in, take the bias tape out of the center of the panels, and put the bones on the seam where they should be. This should give me a more accurate fit and I need to see the fit improvement because this corset is looking dumpy right now, and a corset should never look dumpy!

1844 fitting round 2

I decided to pin the godets in place so I could do the second fitting without fabric flopping open.

Then I tried on the mock up. It turns out that pretty hourglass shape I liked from the first fitting was the result of excess fabric.

Too bad. It looks like I pinned out a little too much from the top near the shoulder blade. But other than that the back looks OK. Now from the front.

I can see I need to blend the reduction at the side hip all the way to the waist to give a smoother line. And there still is a gap at the bottom that is even more visible from the side.

Maybe removing some from from the bottom of the second panel and blending to the waist will help? Maybe standing straighter? I'd swear I was standing straight, but clearly I'm not. I also think that the busk I'm using is too rigid. The illustration in Corsets and Crinolines shows a slight indentation at the waist. By drawing a line on a piece of vellum and laying it over the drawing of the corset it's easy to see.

The busk on mine makes such a hard line that it pulls out from the waist. That shouldn't be, right? Any suggestions?

1844 fitting

Warning. Fitting this corset without the godets at the bust is not pretty.

Oh my. I had to cut the fabric at the bust to get the corset to sit properly, I only imagine it would have looked worse if I had cut the space for both gores. But I can see the shape of the corset starting to show, and I think it will make a very nice silhouette once the alterations are made so it fits correctly. Here's how it looks from the back.

Not too bad. Very Man Ray Violin d'Ingres don't you think? And if you look past the giant seam allowance near the lacing you can see a nice curve along the center back.

I've pinned away the excess across the belly, and a little bit at the side seam near the top. I don't think I'll need the extra inch I added at the top and bottom edges, but I'll wait until I've sewn the alterations and start to fit the bust gores before I make that call.

I was second guessing my fabric choice as I was sewing. It was so floppy it just didn't seem possible that linen napkins could get the job done. But after trying it on I believe using two layers will work fine. Plus, the linen should make this corset super comfortable in Summer weather. It felt cold when I put it on, cool air came right through the t-shirt I had on. Has anyone else made a linen corset and experienced this?

the worst pictures of the best fitting

I don't believe it. It fits

It's hard to see past those giant seam allowances, and I couldn't lift my arm to get a better shot, but I swear it fits perfectly. Wait, let me me put it on again with the seam allowance to the inside.

There is some digging into my waist at the back, but I think that's caused by the boning in the 1 inch seam allowance. When I chalked in a waistline it was right where the seam line is on the pattern. The seam allowance along the neckline will also be gone so that area will look much prettier.

How often does a pattern work as is? Never!

gore raising

I ripped out the hip gores, bumped them up an inch, and pinned the mock-up on. The waist wrinkles were smaller, but still there. Raised the gores another 1/2 inch and put the mock-up on one more time.

At last. The gores need to be lengthened and reshaped since the corselet is now loose across the backside, but I think the big fitting issue has been solved. 

Question. Should I be concerned the way the grain angles on the side panel? It's straight at the bust where it's snug, but below the waist it angles to the front. What to do?

gingham mock-up

The back fit is much better.

Yea. But the sides still need help.

It's also a little sad when the belly and the bust are the same shape. 

Both sides have the same wrinkle/fold. I was thinking that fold could be caused by the fabric riding up, pulling from below to cover an area that is too tight. I received a comment suggesting that I raise the hip gores to add flair to the high hip, so I'm going to do exactly this. 

See you soon with a 4th mock-up.   

2nd corselet mock-up

I've achieved the desired boyish figure.

However, there are still problems with the back.

That's not pretty. The back princess seams look better closer together, and the added length at the bottom edge helps, but those wrinkles! I can't kid myself and say they will disappear when the corselet is pulled down by the garters. That should help, as will functioning shoulder straps,and fabric heavier that quilter's cotton, but I think what really need to do is shave a bit off the seam between the waist and shoulder blade. If I can get that area to fit as snugly as the front then maybe the top won't sag downward. I don't know. Fitting oneself is difficult. 

1925 mock-up

I'm permitting my flesh to fall into the corselet. 

I did this by altering the pattern roughly to my natural measurements. The waistline on the Norah Waugh's pattern is 31 1/2 inches, and the hips are 40. I believe the bust was 35 1/2, but I've already thrown away the excess part of the pattern that was written on. So this corselet was not for a woman with a slight, boyish, figure. I took a couple inches off at the bust and hips, and 3 1/2 off the waist, figuring I'd take more off the rest when fitting. I pinned the mock-up together on the left front side, where the hooks and eyes will be. Then I pinched fabric and pinned the excess while looking in a mirror. The area above the waist needs to be snug, I want to feel secure should I be doing the Charleston. Here's a side view.

What are those unattractive wrinkles at the side? And across the back too?

Too much fabric. I'll have to remove a chunk across the center of the side and back pieces. The gores are set a bit wide, and I also don't like how wide and boxy those two seams look above the  gores. As for fitting the elastic gores; I figured the elastic is there to allow movement, so the hips should fit correctly without any stretch. When the finished garment is made with elastic it will then fit properly have the added stretch for flexibility. 

The silhouette I'm aiming for is the last image on the Bridges on the Body Title bar. I should be closer after more pattern adjusting and a second mock-up. 

stays mock-up round 2

A definite improvement over the first mock-up.

I'm still not sure about the neckline and armhole though. The armhole starts about where the top edge of a bra would sit, so lower than a regular armhole, but maybe that's where it's supposed to be. To be certain the neckline was OK I skipped underthings (not possible with the first mock-up) and I guess it's alright since I think it's supposed to be low. The shoulder straps are sitting better, but I'm wondering if I should bump them in another quarter inch. I don't think I need the extra length to the tabs so I'll knock off a bit. Now the back view.

Not bad. From the back it's easy to see the distance between the the arm and armhole. I made the shoulder straps longer, but still not long enough. I think it's pulling in  at the top because the straps aren't tied in place. To be sure I'll make longer straps and do another try-on.

patterning the stays round 2

An inch and a half seems like a huge amount to add between the waist and bust lines, but that's what I went with.

I also added a half inch along the bottom, figuring if the area above the waist needs lengthening the area below should be lengthened too. During the mock-up try-on I marked the waistline then transferred that line to the pattern. The pattern piece (second from right) that attaches to the center wraps around the waist at an angle, so the waistline does not run straight across the way I had originally measured. To get the correct waist measurement I took a bit out of all the pieces, except the back, through the center of each piece along the grainline. For reference, the waistline on the original pattern is roughly 26 inches.

Hopefully the second mock-up will fit better than the first.

yikes

This doesn't look right.

Yet even with the rough construction, and way too low neckline and armhole, you can see the silhouette coming through.

I'm going back to the drafting table and will lengthen the body to raise the neckline and armhole 1 1/2 inches. Maybe 1 3/4. The bottom center front looks like it could be lengthened just a bit too. Hooray for mock-ups.

another try-on

It looks like this might work.

The alterations I made at the hips and the bust helped the fit. I'm not sure if adding at the top edge was necessary though. I think what I need to do is drop the point at the center front instead. I didn't add anything at the center, but because of the curve around the bust the bit I did add didn't create the nice angle that I was after. I've marked the top and bottom edges with tape, and positioned the cording.

I'm happy with the shape. It takes a little imagination, but I think I'll be able to achieve the smooth, elongated, torso seen on the fashion plates from this era. Yea.

illustration from La Mode Illustree´1888

everything that can go wrong

Did I say there was no whining in corsetry? I was wrong. To prevent ranting I will simply list the difficulties encountered when I assembled the pieces for a quick fitting.

• After laying the pieces out, and all were present and accounted for, one piece went AWOL. Where did it go? Who knows? After a thorough search of the house and the garage no piece turned up. Fortunately, there was enough adia cloth to cut another piece, but there is no more should another piece go missing.

• I thought I measured every pattern edge to make sure the seam lines were the same length. I discovered when pinning the pieces 2 and 3 together I did not. There was almost a 3/8 inch difference between the two. With no more fabric to cut new pieces from I pinned from the waist up, leaving the excess at the top, (The edges from the waist down were the same length.) and will reshape the top edge once the corset is tried on.

• I discover as I’m lacing myself in that I sewed one of the lacing strips over the seam on the piece next to it. So I must pick out the stitching. (Thankfully it was basted in, not sewn at 12-14 stitches per inch.) This involves hunching over a twisted-around-the-body, laced corset. After pinning the lacing strip in place I forge ahead.

• I twist the corset back so it sits properly and realize I forgot to baste bone channels on. The whole contraption is crunchy and wrinkling, and it’s impossible to tell whether it fits well or not.

• I grab the camera to document the ill fitting monstrosity and after one out of focus shot the battery dies.

• Frustrated and hungry, I manage to tangle the lacing in a knot, and break into a nervous sweat as I think this is my own private Hell and I’ll be stuck twisting in this fabric cage for eternity.

• A deep breath later I manage to untie the knot. I take the corset off, and as I set it down I see my cat has been sitting on the corded pieces, leaving a spot of dirt on one.

It's at this point I decided vodka was the solution to my problems and poured a shot of Grey Goose over watermelon granita I'd made the night before. Tomorrow I'll sew again.

waist belt and cording placement

I still haven't decided whether or not to put the belt around the waist. I'm concerned that it won't add to the corset, but be too much. In case I do decide to add it I thought I should figure out the placement by putting the mock-up on and drawing where I wanted the waist belt to be.

I also realized I forgot to mark where the cording under the bust will fall. I’ve marked mine in at a sharper angle than the cording on Norah Waugh’s pattern. A few reasons; I’ve changed the angle of the top edge and I want the cording to follow that angle. I also think the stronger angle is more pleasing to the eye, directing it upward, rather than across, as a shallower angle will do. And last, the cording is there to support to the bust. It seems structurally that an angle will provide more support that something straight across, which is how the cording often is on this style of corset. There is a pale blue one in the Kyoto Costume Institute’s digital archive that has the same cording (This could be quilting instead of cording, it’s hard to tell on this picture, but the general design is the same.) and the angle is almost nonexistent.

Both the waist belt and the cording fabric will be separate pieces so I have room to change them before I sew them on. The cording will be done on a piece of fabric that is parallel top and bottom, it will be easy to add. I'm not sure about the waist belt though. I may be in over my head with this piece.

fitting

The fit is not bad. Not perfect. But not bad.

There is some wrinkling, but since it looks pretty even and is all horizontal I think it’s from using thin muslin and not having the boning secured at the ends so the fabric is sliding. I think. It could be that the extra half inch I added between the waist and the underbust to lengthen the torso is too much. Here’s an out of focus side view.

And an even more out of focus back view.

I am so glad I added to the top edge of the original pattern. I'd be a goner if I hadn't. Still, I felt I needed more coverage. After I pinned the excess fabric at the seams, I pinned muslin to the mock-up and drew in a new top edge.

I also marked a new bottom edge, taking about an inch off. I'll make all the changes to the pattern and then it's time to cut the real fabric. Yea.

the mock-up

The pattern was drafted based on the draped paper. I added a half-inch seam allowance to each piece and sewed the whole thing up. Here it is on, if you look closely you'll notice lots of pale, sloppy lines drawn on the fabric. I looked in the mirror and drew where changes need to be made. And no, I haven't inserted the busk backwards, these pictures were snapped in a mirror.

Even with the changes to the pattern this corset is still too long through the waist and the fabric is crushing under the bust. Part of the problem is the seam allowance that will be sewn up on the finished piece. But the other part is just that I'm short waisted. I'm not the only person who has dealt with this, look at this ribbon corset from the Rijksmuseum in the Netherlands. Same crushing. Trimming the top edge down will solve this problem. To keep the corset balanced looking the bottom edge will be trimmed down a bit as well. Otherwise, I'm content with the fit. The back edges along the laces are parallel. Good. And I tested one side of the lacing strips continuing the angle of the top and bottom, the other straight across to see which I prefer. I'm keeping the angle.

Back to the drafting table.