July 17, 2014

interior view of 1914 eyelet corset

Last week I posted pictures of a beautiful 1914 corset. I mentioned that the orange pattern on the fabric was made by basting ribbon to the cotton eyelet. Here is an image of the interior of the corset.

The silk ribbon is very lightweight and doesn't provide any structure to the corset. It was simply basted in place following the lines of the eyelet. If you look closely you can see it's shattering in places. You can also see a dart used to shape the corset. The bone casings are secured at the waist and at the top and bottom of each casing. At the bottom of the image you can see how the casing sits flush at the waist but otherwise floats separately from the fabric.

There is a 1906 patent for a corset made with thin material finished with swiss embroidery. I've always wondered if it was possible to make a corset with such lightweight fabric, and this corset shows that it is. Corsets made with such delicate materials won't hold up to the rigors of daily wear, but sometimes it's nice just to have pretty underthings, not sturdy underthings. 

July 10, 2014

a teens corset from a single pattern piece

I prepared this lovely corset for the upcoming Kent State University Museum exhibit, The Great War: Women and Fashion in a World at War

© Kent State University Museum, KSUM 1983.3.52

Salmon colored ribbon was basted behind cream colored, cotton eyelet to create a striking textile. A double wide strip of the same colored ribbon was basted behind the lace at the top edge. 

© Kent State University Museum, KSUM 1983.3.52

Here is a close up of the fabric and the petticoat hook.

© Kent State University Museum, KSUM 1983.3.52

This corset is from 1914 and it epitomizes the long lines of the fashionable silhouette at that time. The center front is 20 inches long. That's long! The skirt reaches to mid thigh. The fabric was shaped with darts rather than cut into separate pieces. The darts have simply been pressed to the side all the way around the body of the corset.

© Kent State University Museum, KSUM 1983.3.52

The center back is 22 inches long. So long that darts were needed below the hip line for shaping.

© Kent State University Museum, KSUM 1983.3.52

The waist measurement of this corset is 25 inches. It's mounted with  2 inch lacing gap, so the waist of it displayed on the form is 27 inches. 

There is a wonderful write up about the exhibit at Worn Through. It opens July 24, 2014. If you are in Northeast Ohio be sure to stop by!

It was so fun dressing and photographing this corset. The pattern created by the contrasting salmon ribbon and cream eyelet looks so Weiner Werst├Ątte to me, and I've already mentioned my appreciation of that aesthetic. Also, I'd never seen a corset made from a single pattern piece. Gorgeous, right?