the new corset, short above the waist

This dress is described as an "odd gown" in a March 16, 1912 article about what the best dressed women are going to wear.

I don't think it looks any more or less odd than any of the other dresses pictured in the the Ogden, Utah Evening Standard. It definitely would be odd if worn with a turn-of-the-century S bend corset instead of "the new corset, short above the waist, and with it's accompanying brassier." I think any of the Henderson's corsets shown in this ad found in the North Platte Semi-Weekly Tribune ad qualify as "the new corset."

I've been looking for an ad with a corset cut just like Norah Waugh's 1911 patter and haven't found one. The second one in the top row comes close, but without gores. The corset on the top right looks like the post Edwardian pattern used for the sew along. Are there still stragglers out there finishing up sew along corsets? I'll be posting photos of my 1911 corset next week, if you aren't quite done you've got the weekend to finish those last details. Just keep sewing. Don't forget to share your images on the flickr page. It is so exciting seeing the finished pieces! They are looking great, you are so talented!

concerning cheese

Isn't that the best headline ever? I read it while doing research in the February 18, 1912 edition of The Washington Herald for what was supposed to be tomorrow's post.

Two misses wearing simple 1912 workday attire, enjoying a tasty meal of cheese fondue. If you read Marion Harland's column you'll find a couple recipes for Welsh Rabbit Without Beer, which must be the saddest rarebit of them all. Concerning Cheese was just a page or two after the latest Paris Fashions.

The materials in two of the dresses are described as " Salmon Pink Liberty," and "Blue Liberty Satin." I believe that is Liberty as in Liberty of London. I want an excuse to wear the evening wrap shown in the center. Too bad I won't be performing any arias on stage soon.

So why cheese and gowns? I'm still attaching garters and haven't started adding the trim to the top edge yet. Yikes. For any of you who are a bit off the sew along schedule don't fret, just keep sewing. I'm still sewing right along with you! Next week we'll finish the last details on the corsets, including trimming the top edge. Almost done!

a patterning and construction nightmare

Can you imagine cutting and sewing any of these corsets?

Yikes. This ad was found in the January 28, 1912 edition of the San Francisco Call. I'll say it again. Yikes.

what keeps you motivated?

I was going to write about marking the bone placement on the pattern after alterations, but I'm tired of looking at that pattern, which means others must be tired of looking at it too. Plus, marking the placement is simple, it can wait. We've spent half the sew along preparing patterns and fitting mock-ups, and soon our corsets will start to look like real garments. Hooray! The desire to see if a finished piece will look like I imagine it will keeps me going when I'm feeling frustrated or bored with a project. Sometimes they turn out better, sometimes worse, but I never know until they're completed.

This illustration is from and advertisement printed in the June 26, 1912 edition of the Bisbee Daily Review. If I had a gown like this I'd want to knock a corset out so could wear it.

I'm curious, what pushes you? Is it the thrill of wearing of wearing a pretty ensemble to an event, or the challenge of learning something new? I'd love to hear how you keep yourself motivated!

1911 - fitting notes

Perfectionism can cause me to get lost in a fitting quagmire. Quagmires are no fun. Fortunately this corset doesn't have to be fit over the bust and it's not intended to severely reduce the waist, so the difficulties of pattering the bust curves and dealing with displaced flesh are avoided. One nice thing about this style, and the patterns we're working with for the sew along, is that we can easily change both the top and bottom edges to suit our needs. Require a bit more hip coverage? Leave the bottom edge a bit longer. You'll be tangoing the night away? Arch the bottom front edge over the legs like the second model from the left in the image below.

You can see a variety of hip lengths in this picture is from the 1911 Sears Catalog. The shortest version ends just below the bum, others continue for another inch or two. It also shows several options for shaping the top edge. That is a good reason to keep the extra inch added when tracing the pattern to the mock-up. After the corset is sewn the edge can be marked right on the fabric. Easy peasy. When I first tried on my mock-up the area above the waist was almost straight up and down, not the gradual slope from waist to bust we see on the models in the image above. When I let out the seams above the waist I not only could I breath again, I had the slight flare at the front instead of a straight, cylindrical shape. Surprisingly, the biggest change happened when I let out the back seam. That seam falls under the shoulder blades and is where a lot of flesh spillage can occur. So if you are fitting yourself by looking in a mirror remember that what you easily see in the front can be affected by what's not so easy to see in the back.

Those of you who have mock-ups that meet in the center back, take a tiny bit out of the center of each panel, say 1/4 inch. That will add up over the width of the corset resulting in a gap at the lacing. If you have a gap, but it's small, say just an inch, then shave a small amount off the center back edge, no more than 1/2 inch. That will allow a wider gap for easier lacing.

If the corset is comfortable everywhere but pulls wide open at the opening below the busk, let out the first seam from the hips down. If you had a bit of room in front just below the hip bone that's OK. The garters will help anchor the corset down and keep a smooth line.

When making alterations it's best to make one change at a time. For example, add to the hips, see how it fits, then reduce above the waist. When you make many changes at once overcorrection can quickly occur. As long the mock-up fits and is comfortable the finished corset will do the rest of the shaping.

I'm enjoying the steady work flow that I've achieved with this corset and am glad there is a schedule to stick to so I get bogged down in fitting. I'm also looking forward to cutting into the real fabric later this week. How about you? Excited to get to work on the real thing?

fashion from 100 years ago today

Afternoon gowns in satin, velvet and crepe de chine. From The Woman's Page of the Times-Dispatch, Richmond, Virginia, January 21, 1912.

Our sew along corsets would provide a perfect foundation for any of these gowns, don't you agree?

1911 - correct corseting

How is the fitting going? Remember that while the adjustments may seem small, an extra 1/8 inch on a seam will add 1/4 inch to one side, 1/2 inch to the entire width. So a few small changes can really add up and make a big change in the overall fit. Since we're fitting our sew along mock-ups it's the perfect time to share this article on correct corseting by Lillian Russell.

Click here to read the full article, published in the Washington Herald on December 3, 1911. Her advice is sensible, "It will not make you look any more slender if you wear a small corset;" and "a woman with the forty-two inch hips must have at least a thirty-two inch waist." She counsels against lacing tightly across the top because it makes an unsightly bulge of flesh at the back. In fact, she recommends lacing the corset looser above the waist so the hips are more suppressed, and you can see this lacing illustrated in the picture captioned "Your Corset Should Not be Tight Enough to Restrict the Movement of Your Arms."

Let's compare that to the lacing on my mock-up.

Please excuse the dust on the mirror, I swear I cleaned it and it didn't show on the other pictures I took, why the shots from the back? Anyway, I have no option of lacing looser, it is tight, tight, tight. Once I lowered my arms that unsightly bulge was present. When I let out the seam allowances at the top not only was it much more comfortable, the bulge was gone, and fabric no longer crushed under the bust. Yesterday, I mentioned leaving the added length at the top until I try on the final corset and that is one reason why. I want that small flare under the bust so I can achieve the smooth line so desired. If I cut that bit off now I've set top edge squarely under the bust, making an abrupt shift from ribs to bust, resulting in more of a capital P shape from the side. That wouldn't be the end of the world, but I'm aiming for a smooth transition and a bit of extra length at the top may help. The other reason is that once stronger fabric is used, seams reinforced, and casings sewn in, the real corset will be a much stronger garment than the mock-up. Boning can be slipped in and it will be possible to better gage that top edge.

If you're working with the post Edwardian pattern, which is a bit longer above the waist than the Corsets and Crinolines pattern, you may not need the extra length at all. The goal is a corset that works for you, so you have the final say in how it fits.

Back to Lillian, she also says people "take their ideas of what the corset is from the wooden figures in the window displaying models for commercial purposes or from the impossible fashion drawings in magazines." Good point Miss Russell.

1911 - world's best corsets

The world's three best corsets.

Except for ours of course. Found in the March 29, 1911 edition of The Arizona Republican.

1911 - comfort in brassieres

How's the tracing of the patterns onto fabric going? I forgot to mention that after I cut the pieces from the fabric, and clip the notch marks, I flip the pattern pieces over and trace them on the the untraced pieces. Does that make sense? I like all the cut corset pieces to have the pattern nicely delineated because then I don't have to think about seam allowance or where to sew, I can just sew. And for those of you concerned that you're already a bit behind the sew along schedule don't stress. Just keep working, you'll have the weekend to catch up and next week will be an easy one.

This is a segment of an article about corsets and brassieres in the July 14, 1912 edition of the New York Tribune. The full article is filled with advice and descriptions, and amusing lines like "Hip confiners an inexpensive joy."

For those of you looking for more information about the teens era brassiere, or fitted corset cover as it was commonly called, Jennifer Thompson has a couple of pinterest boards with tons of images. She informed me that there is a pattern for a fitted corset cover in the book Edwardian Modiste, which is the second time that pattern has been mentioned (thanks Tielke!). She also said she'd be happy to help with questions about 1910s brassieres. Thank you Jennifer! If you aren't familiar with Jennifer's work visit her website, there are some great costumes and excellent research. Also, she has a 1910's corset pattern!

Tomorrow we'll start sewing so get those machines ready!

corset saves a life

I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't read it myself.

From the October 13, 1911 edition of the New York Daily Tribune.

1911 - for ladies with a more ample bosom

I've received so many questions about foundation options for women with a larger bust it makes me wish I could include steps for patterning and fitting the bust in this sew along. If I had already experimented with altering the patterns we're using to fit the bust I'd happily included those steps, but I haven't, and I don't want lead anyone astray. I can however share a few images of bust support solutions from the period.

The first is a corset at the V&A from just few years earlier than the 1911/12 patterns we're using. The cut combines a higher top edge with a gore to provide support on a garment which measures approximately 41 3/4 inches at the bust, 24 1/2 at the waist, and 38 3/4 at the hip.

© V&A accession number T.67-1938

A 1911 advertisement for the Sahlin Perfect Form and Corset Combined shows another way to enhance the bust.

The ad says this model is for slender or medium figures, but I've seen almost identical styles advertised for women with full figures. Here's a Sahlin corset at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

© Metropolitan Museum of Art accession number 2000.169.2

Can any of you recommend period patterns for the ladies wishing to sew a bust bodice? That might be a good solution for those needing a bit more support. If there were one in Corsets and Crinolines I'd have no choice but to sew it too!

1911 - taking measurements

The 1912 Spirella catalog says "the waist line is the base from which all longitudinal measurements will be taken." So we'll start there.

Years ago I was told that to locate your waist for measuring stand straight, then bend bend to the side. The point where your body bends is where you place your tape measure. Works for me. Make certain the tape measure is snug, but not pulling, against your body, and is level all the way around. It helps to have a friend since just bending over to look at the tape when you do it yourself can change the number. But I do all my measurements myself so don't sweat it if you are wielding the tape measure yourself. There are two other measurements we need to be concerned with, the hip line 6 1/2 inches below the waist, line mm on the diagram above, and 9 inches below the waist, line nn on the diagram. Once you have those measurements that's it, we're done for now!

Since this corset is an underbust cut we're not going to concern ourselves with the bust or underbust measurements. If you want to add bust support to your corset you will need to take those two measurements and extend the top edge of the pattern, but I won't be covering how to pattern or fit the bust during this sew along. We'll save that for another one!

It sounds obvious, but is worth mentioning, be honest with your measurements. I know, it hurts sometimes to acknowledge an extra inch, but it hurts more when you have to pick out seams when something fits horribly because it was patterned too small. Plus, since it is a corset we're making we will be chiseling away a few inches so you'll end up with that smaller number anyway.

In the next few days before we start patterning let's make sure our drafting supplies are in order. We'll need paper, (it doesn't need to be special paper, I usually recycle misprints from the copier or just use paper from a sketchpad) tape, scissors or an exacto knife and cutting mat, a sharp pencil, a ruler, and a tape measure. A C-Thru ruler is a real help, but not a necessity. Is everyone ready to start patterning next Monday? Any last minute questions I can help with? Don't forget the flickr group is there, do drop by and share your images with the group!

1911 - a Warner's 1912-14 corset up close

One of the benefits to working in a museum is the opportunity to see the objects up close. I was given permission to snap a couple pictures of one and share them here.

Kent State University Museum, accession number 1983.3.117

A Warner's corset from 1912-14. Even though there are no extras, like flossing or lace, it shows how simple does not mean boring. Here is a closer look.

The black satin is so sleek. Let's take a quick peek at the interior.

The black silk was fused with white cotton and sewn as a single layer. If you look closely you'll see the cotton is not a herringbone coutil, it's a plain weave. The bone casings are made with cotton twill tape. There is no waist stay on this corset. Norah Waugh indicated a stay on the 1911 Corsets and Crinolines pattern so I'll be including one on mine, but if you decide not to sew one it's still period correct.

This Warner's ad, found in the March 28, 1912 edition of the Jasper News, features a corset with the same cut.

Good luck to everyone who entered in the 500 follower celebration giveaway! Entries are now closed. The winner will be announced tomorrow. I've enjoyed reading all your comments and am thrilled to see you many of you are participating in the sew along!

1911 - fabric choices

It has been so much fun reading your comments in yesterday's giveaway post. So many fun projects, you guys are inspiring! For those who haven't yet entered you have until Wednesday, here's the post.

So then, 1911 fabric. I originally planned to make this corset from striped ticking. I used the ticking I had in the stash for the post edwardian, so now what do I do? I could buy a red or black stripe ticking, but I'd be basically sewing the same corset twice. Don't let that stop you fellow sew alongers from using ticking though. I found it very easy to work with and the stripes suited the long cut of the corset. Plus, stripes show up regularly in period advertisements. Here's one from Dessous Elégants, 1912.

The blue brocade coutil that I'll be sending someone for the giveaway has been in my stash for years. I'll still have enough to make a corset, and I haven't used a brocade coutil yet, so I may cut into it. There are some beautiful brocade corsets out there, like this one from 1912 found at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

© Metropolitan Museum of Art (accession number C.I.38.71.5a,b)

Who says beige is boring, right? The old post edwardian corset I bought and used to make the pattern for the Foundations Revealed article is made from plain, cotton, drill. Here's a detail of the fabric with the trim along the top edge.

Just a good, sturdy, tightly woven twill. It clearly got the job done. I've seen beautiful examples made with black, cotton backed satin. The satin was so smooth and the plain weave cotton backing kept it from stretching, yet together they were still very light weight. So flatlining is an option too. I also have plain white coutil that I could dye. I don't have much experience dying fabric, but that shouldn't stop me.

What about you? Have you already chosen your fabric? Do you already have something fabulous in your stash that will be perfect? Are you like me and hoping to try something new? If your planning on coutil take advantage of the specials offers from King & Co. Corsetry and Sew Curvy! Julia at Sew Curvey has even put together a 1911 sew along kit! £29.99 for everything you need in one fell swoop. And that's before the discount!

1911 corset sew along - supply list and some wonderful offers

There are two special offers on for sew along participants. Caitlin at King & Co. Corsetry, based in New York City, will give participants 10% off everything in the store, English coutil, grommets, busks, and patterns for future corsets. This off expires January 15, 2012 at 11:59 PM EST. Use promo code SEW1911 at check out.

King & Co. Corsetry

And Julia at Sew Curvy Corsetry, near Oxford UK, will give participants a 10% discount on corset supplies. She has a wide selection of coutils, busks and metal findings. This offer also expires January 15th, 2012, but at 11:59 PM GMT. Use the code bridges at check out.

Sew Curvy

I'm going to take advantage of both offers. There are black grommets at King & Co. that I would love to finish a corset with, and Sew Curvy has satin coutil, which I have been wanting to use. A big thank you Caitlin and Julia for supporting the 1911 sew along!

Here is a list of supplies needed to make a corset that fits approximately size US 6-8, a UK 10, or a European 38. If you are a few sizes larger, or smaller, you will need to adjust quantities accordingly.

pattern - either Corsets and Crinolines 1911 corset, or the post edwardian pattern I drafted for Foundations Revealed

1 yard fabric - I'll love coutil, but if you want to sew with another fabric I'll be posting about fabric choice soon. (If using 54 inch wide fabric only 1/2 yard is needed)

1- 9 or 10 inch busk

12 - 9 inch ¼ inch wide flat steel bones

8 - 16 ½ long inch ¼ inch wide flat steel bones

2 -10 inch long ½ inch wide flat steel bones

1 yard – lace or broderie anglaise (optional)

1 yard twill tape for waist stay

10 yards - 2 inch wide bias to trim top & bottom edges, bone casings & garter covering

5 yards - 3/4 inch wide bone casing

1½ yard - elastic for garters

6 garter slides and grips

42 - size double zero grommets

7 yards - double face satin ribbon or cord for lacing

1 - spool thread

Tomorrow I'll post a list of answers to some of the frequently asked questions I've been receiving. Until then, we can gaze at the lovely Diana in the C.B. Corset ad from Dessous Elégants published in March, 1912.

1911 corset sew along - inspiration

Tomorrow I'll post a list of supplies needed to make the 1911 corset. Until then, I'll leave you with this advertisement for Warner's Rust-Proof corsets.

This was published in The Washington Herald, February 19, 1911, as part of a full page ad for the Palais Royal department store. If you want to get lost in period corset advertisements visit the Library of Congress website. If you are like me you'll completely loose track of time. Have fun researching!

edwardian posture - ideal vs. reality

The Gibson girl silhouette is so pleasing to eye. By 1908 the S bend line has softened a bit compared to a few years earlier, but the leaning forward, scooped in small of the back, and mono-bosum look was still the ideal. Here is an ad for American Lady corsets found in April 1908 edition of The Designer.

The new snug hip! Let's compare the illustrated model's posture to a few photographs of actresses wearing the latest fashions.

They are all standing like upright citizens with good posture. The third lady from the right comes closest to the ideal, and the draping on her bodice definitely helps her achieve the desired look. For fun I laid a piece of vellum over the photo and drew the American Lady corset on one of the ladies to see how it would fit.

Very shapely. But still not leaning forward. And not nearly as long and slim a line as shown in the ad. By the way, the actress with the exposed corset is Maxine Elliott and quick search will result in tons of beautiful pictures of her.

warner's rust-proof corsets

A lovely illustration from an ad for Warner's Rust-Proof Corsets published in the April, 1908 edition of The Designer.

Pretty, pretty, pretty. The copy explains how Warner's has advanced corsetry with rust-proof boning, stocking supports, and "now in 1908 the standardizing of the construction of our 61 styles, so that every corset bearing the name of Warner's, whether selling at $1.oo or $5.00, shall be equal in wear and unbreakableness." I love that word, unbreakableness.

I found the magazine at a garage sale tucked between a 1978 JC Penney catalog and a Sears catalog from the same era. Not wanting to alert anyone that I had found something cool, I kept it between the two telephone book sized catalogs and said, "I'll take these three." "At a quarter each that'll be 75¢." Score!

You learn a lot about how women lived when you look at an antique magazine like this. In addition to stories, cooking advise, and household tips, there are several pages of the latest fashions for the lady of the house and her children. There are ads for the things you'd expect, hats, cleaning products, and food. And some for things you might not, like the two ads for raising poultry at home.