This week we'll sew our mock-ups, but before we start sewing we'll need to trace the pattern to muslin. Today we'll need our patterns, a ruler, tailor's chalk or a pencil, and muslin. If you haven't already pressed your muslin do iron it before tracing the pattern. It makes it much easier.
Start by folding your fabric in half with the selvedges together. For those who are new to sewing the selvedge is the woven edge of the fabric, not the raw, cut one. It's also the direction of the grain line which is the strongest direction of the fabric. You can see it on at the top of the photo below. It's important to align the pattern pieces with the grain line so they lay properly on the body. Place the first piece with the center front 1 inch from the selvedge and trace around it.
I don't pin the pattern to the fabric, I usually set a small weight or two on it to hold it in place. After the piece is traced add 1 inch seam allowance to the sides. If you are tall you may also want to add an inch at the top and and inch or two to the bottom edge. Draw the top and bottom edge lines all the way to the selvedge so the center front has 1 inch seam allowance too.
One inch is a giant seam allowance. It's possible to make adjustments with a narrower allowance, but it gets difficult to pin with less fabric to grasp, especially if you are doing the fitting alone. I square the seam allowance on the mock-up and shape it on the finished piece. See how the end of the seam allowance forms a right angle with the corner of the pattern piece?
If you prefer drawing the seam allowance around the pattern piece with out tracing it that's OK. Either way, don't forget to transfer the notch marks to the fabric.
You can double check to make sure the next piece is aligned with the grain line by measuring to the selvedge,
or to the grain line of the piece just traced.
When you trace the final piece, the back panel, add seam allowance only to the seam line that connects to the previous panel, not to the center back edge. Now cut the pieces out and make a small snip at the notch marks.
Done! We'll pin the pieces together and sew the mock-up on Wednesday.