January 27, 2012

1911 - flat felled

Bone casings don't cover the seam allowance on the 1911 Corsets and Crinolines design, so those working with that pattern need to finish the seams, otherwise the raw edges will fray. Start by placing the fabric pieces wrong sides together, so you can see the face side when sewing, and sew a seam 1/2 inch from the edge of the seam allowance.

Press the allowance to one side.

The allowance of the front gore to the front, the the front to the side front, and the side front to the side back should be presses toward the center back. The back gore to the side back and the side back to the back should be pressed toward the center front. Here is a diagram.

Another way to think of it is piece 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 3 to 4, seam allowance to the center back. 4 to 5 and 5 to 6 to the center front. This may sound confusing now, but when you start assembling the pieces you'll see right away why the allowance at the points of the gores must go in one direction or the other. After the allowance is pressed trim the side that lies next to the face of the fabric in half.

Fold the other side of the allowance over the trimmed side and press.

Stitch 1/16 from the fold.

The seam will look like this from the front.

And this from the back.

Ten seams, two days. You can do it!


  1. Oh impatient me, getting ahead of the class and hand basting everything together in my spare time today! (wrong side out, of course...) Seam ripper, I love you... Oh well. Worse things have happened. :)

    Jo, I really appreciate you explaining everything in easy babysteps, I would never have gotten this far on my own. But doesn't it take up a huuuuge amount of spare time for you?

  2. My seam ripper is my best friend.

    It's been my pleasure hosting the sew along! It has forced me to be so organized, which has kept me sane. It's great to hear that explaining everything in small steps is working well!

  3. How wide are your seam allowances?

    1. They are 1/2 inch wide, then the one side is trimmed to 1/4 inch.