1991 - notching the pattern and adding length

Almost done patterning! Today we'll be cutting out and notching the pattern so we'll need sharp scissors or and x-acto knife, and a pencil. If you are using the Corsets and Crinolines pattern you'll need tape and paper too. First cut out the pieces. If you are using scissors please make sure they are not the same ones you use for cutting fabric. For those new to sewing, paper dulls the blades and makes it impossible to cut your fabric nicely when the time comes. No fun. The notches will be our guides for assembling so they are important. Once the pieces are cut, line two up together and make a mark between the two.

Cut out a small V at the mark on one side.

Do the same on the other, and they should match right up.

The post Edwardian pattern already has notch marks but they may need to be adjusted if you cut through any vertical seams when expanding the pattern, or if there was distortion from enlarging. I've flagged my notch marks for the Corsets and Crinoline 1911 pattern so you can use the placement as a guide for notching your own pattern.

There should be only one way to assemble the pieces because the notches will only connect one way.

If you are using the post Edwardian pattern you're done! The rest of us have one more step to do. We're going to add two inches to the bottom of the pattern. Why? Norah Waugh's pattern is for a very small corset and is shorter than the post Edwardian. Once we expand the pattern the shorter length will make the corset look blocky in comparison, and we don't want blocky. We want long lines. Plus, I want everyone who purchased pre-cut boning to be able to use the same lengths at the center back. The lengthening goes quickly. Tape the first pattern piece to some paper and redraw the bottom edge 2 inches below the original using a ruler.

Extend the vertical lines using the hip curve.

Cut out the new piece. When you are finished the bottom of the pattern should look like this.

This addition should not significantly change the seam line length enough to bother with re-truing the seams. If you align the extended sections next to each other they should match up. We've got our patterns!

If you're just joining the sew along, or running a bit behind, you can catch up this weekend. Next week we'll trace the patterns to muslin, add seam allowance, and sew the mock-ups. If you don't have muslin a plain weave, non-stretch fabric will do. You've seen what I use, usually fabric given to me when friends are thinning their stash. I hate buying muslin.

Have a great weekend!