1911 - taking measurements

The 1912 Spirella catalog says "the waist line is the base from which all longitudinal measurements will be taken." So we'll start there.

Years ago I was told that to locate your waist for measuring stand straight, then bend bend to the side. The point where your body bends is where you place your tape measure. Works for me. Make certain the tape measure is snug, but not pulling, against your body, and is level all the way around. It helps to have a friend since just bending over to look at the tape when you do it yourself can change the number. But I do all my measurements myself so don't sweat it if you are wielding the tape measure yourself. There are two other measurements we need to be concerned with, the hip line 6 1/2 inches below the waist, line mm on the diagram above, and 9 inches below the waist, line nn on the diagram. Once you have those measurements that's it, we're done for now!

Since this corset is an underbust cut we're not going to concern ourselves with the bust or underbust measurements. If you want to add bust support to your corset you will need to take those two measurements and extend the top edge of the pattern, but I won't be covering how to pattern or fit the bust during this sew along. We'll save that for another one!

It sounds obvious, but is worth mentioning, be honest with your measurements. I know, it hurts sometimes to acknowledge an extra inch, but it hurts more when you have to pick out seams when something fits horribly because it was patterned too small. Plus, since it is a corset we're making we will be chiseling away a few inches so you'll end up with that smaller number anyway.

In the next few days before we start patterning let's make sure our drafting supplies are in order. We'll need paper, (it doesn't need to be special paper, I usually recycle misprints from the copier or just use paper from a sketchpad) tape, scissors or an exacto knife and cutting mat, a sharp pencil, a ruler, and a tape measure. A C-Thru ruler is a real help, but not a necessity. Is everyone ready to start patterning next Monday? Any last minute questions I can help with? Don't forget the flickr group is there, do drop by and share your images with the group!

1911 - prep & errata

Today is the last day to enter the giveaway, you have until 11:59 pm EST tonight. The winner of the fabric and the tailor's shuriken will be announced Friday!

© Metropolitan Museum of Art (accession number 2005.100.511)

The shop window above was photographed by Eugene Atget in 1912 and you can see there are still plenty of curves in those corsets. I've had several questions about fitting this corset to curvy figures, the 1911 Corset and Crinolines pattern gives us 6 seams to make adjustments to, and the post edwardian I drafted has 5, so I'm confident we'll be able to accommodate curves.

With less than two weeks before the sew along officially kicks off, it's the time to make sure our tools are in order so we can stay on schedule. If you don't have already have a hip curve you may want to consider buying one. They make drafting so much easier.

Is your iron clean so when you press you don't create stains on your carefully sewn piece? How about new needles? I always start each corset with a fresh needle in the machine, it makes a difference! Is your seam ripper ready? Let's hope we don't need to pick out too many seams on the finished corsets, but we definitely will need one during fitting. If you're planning on adding flossing do you have embroidery needles? When I trace patterns onto coutil I use a pencil, but with other fabrics chalk is needed, got chalk? How about a tailor's ham? I don't know how one can sew without a tailor's ham. Anything else you can think of? Please share it in the comments so we're all prepared. Thanks!

I want to make a couple of corrections to the supply list. The first, I specified 1 inch wide bone casing but that width is not commercially available. No problem, use 3/4 inch wide casing. The casings will hold either a single 1/2 inch bone, or two 1/4 inch bones, 3/4 inch wide casing will do this. I said 1 inch because I made my own and that was how wide they were. The second, I said 1 inch wide elastic for the garters, but contemporary garter findings are not that wide. Use elastic that fits your grips, we'll cover them with wider ribbon to give the proper period look. And finally, I said 1 yard of fabric but am giving away 1/2 yard of fabric for the thank you give away. If a half yard is enough to make a corset why did I say 1 yard was needed? The ticking I used for the post edwardian was 33 inches wide, which meant a full yard was required for the corset. If you are using 54 inch wide fabric a half yard will do, depending on your size. Thanks for bringing these issues to my attention, I've updated the list. If you catch anything else let me know!

the treadle cabinet arrives

The treadle cabinet is here. Solid 1905 goodness. I couldn't resist the temptation to make it into a bar.

The half empty pitcher of white sangria fueled the bar idea. It won't stay this way forever, just until the machine is cleaned and a new belt attached. In the meantime the bottles serve as decadent clutter prevention. Also, displaying them instead of just storing them in a kitchen helped turn the apartment where I've been for the past year into my home.

the first piece of the treadle arrives

Yea! I still need to transport the cabinet and treadle to my place, but Singer B971954 is here.

I'm researching the best way to clean this machine up without destroying what remains of the decals. Any suggestions?

thread

A rainbow of possibilities, that is what a storage container of thread is. I love Gütermann threads, but lately, when I need to pick up a new spool I've been searching out Mettler. I could be imagining, but the Mettler seems slightly smoother. Has anyone else noticed a difference between the two?

joy in corsetland

I'm almost the proud owner of a Singer treadle sewing machine.

This is a picture from the original manual. My machine-to-be was manufactured in 1905 and will look just like this one, including the seven drawer cabinet. I just need to figure out how to get it to my house and up the staircase!

possibly the nicest embroidery hoop ever

A friend of mine said, "Hey, you embroider. I have a hoop I can give you." I had no idea the hoop would look like this.

What a beauty! This is a third hand hoop and can be clamped to a table so one can embroider with two hands free, instead of using one to hold the hoop. I feel I need to up my embroidery game to be worthy of such a nice hoop. Anyone out there use a hoop like this? Any advice on the care and maintenance of the old wood?

sewing basket

I'm so close to having the 1925 corselet finished. So close. And when I went to make the garters the thread has gone missing. Poof! Obviously it was me that removed it from  the machine so I could work on another project, but I have no idea where I put it. Normally I move the thread and bobbin to another post on the top of the machine. But I must not have because it is not there. In the meantime, my sewing basket.

Isn't that just beautiful? I have a variety of storage for thread and sewing necessities, but a few years ago I decided I needed a small basket to carry embroidery supplies and bought this shaker box with a handle from Cabin Crafts TinSmith. When I ordered it I asked if it could be painted like a set of boxes from Mount Lebanon Shaker village. The craftsman, William Rickard, was so helpful and said yes even though it was not a style he normally offered. Now I have a little sewing basket that would make Coco Chanel proud. Plus, it doubles as a handbag now and then.

It may be a while until I get to those garters, I'll be traveling for a bit so they'll have to wait until I return. Maybe I'll stumble across the missing thread on my travels.

our little friend the thimble

A thimble is one of those things that you don't think about until one day, after continued struggle pushing a needle through heavy fabric, and several stabs to the fingertips of your other hand, a lightbulb goes off above your head and you think, "Ah, a thimble."

Small, functional, somehow cheerful, I can see why people collect them. There is even a museum dedicated to thimbles. The Fingerhut Museum. I went through a few thimbles before I found one I liked. There was an aluminum one that felt flimsy and hard at the same time. And a brass one that was a size too large so I wrapped a Band-Aid inside to keep it snug on my finger. When I pulled this one from a basket of different sized thimbles and put it on my finger it felt just right.

needle case

I'm on the road. That means it's shark week! No, sorry, it means it's time for another salute to tools! Today's handy tool is a needle case. 

I saw this at a craft fair and snapped it up. I wish I could remember who the vendor was. But I did find the same case at Thread a Bead, and also at The Bead Trail. This does exactly what it's supposed to, holds your needles in a tidy way. Enough said.

avoidance

I found something else to do while mulling over the ribbons along the busk issue. Tie and tuck all loose threads. After the threads were knotted I threaded them through a needle and pulled the thread into the channels. Before.

After.

Not exciting, but necessary. And made much easier with this.

Dritz Quilting Needle Pullers. Once you've pushed the needle through several layers of fabric it can be tough to grasp and pull out. Or at least it is for me. No more. 

Alright, I can't avoid it any longer, back to the busk.

seams finished and more grommets

The seams have all been covered and the basting removed.

Before the reeds go back in I realized the grommets for the shoulder straps needed to be inserted. After looking at the grommet setter I thought I had figured out why the grommets where coming out all torn up. The base was ratty, so I purchased a new grommet setting kit. The base on the left is the old one, on the right is the new.

And here are the grommets set with the new equipment.

Still ragged! Filing the edges won't take that long, but it's disheartening. And I still have the last couple to put on the straps. I have to find a better grommet solution before the next corset.

a solution to ragged grommets

I love the guys Ace Hardware. They never just say, "files are in aisle 17B," they walk you to the exact spot and open the package to make sure the files will work to file the grommet (or whatever tool is needed for whatever purpose). I've also found that if you happen to be lost during a road trip you'll get better directions from someone at Ace than at a gas station. Anyway, here are the files.

And here is a grommet comparison. The one on the left has been filed and the one on the right has not.

While filing a half moon sliver of metal came off, which was very satisfying. To test smoothness I pushed a cotton swab through the hole to see if it's would catch. Nope. All smooth. Filing has saved this pair of stays. Before starting this corset documentation project, this is the exact sort of problem that would have landed this corset in the bin of unfinished projects. Thanks for all the suggestions, they spurred me to action.

pin cushions

The most cheerful sewing accoutrement ever has to be the pin cushion. Don't these make you smile?

Like scissors, pin cushions seem to accumulate. One with the sewing supplies, one in the embroidery box, one next to the sewing machine. I'd like to make the smaller one pictured here into a wrist pin cushion. I was told that in ye olden days pin cushions were filled with human hair because it kept pins and needles sharp, and also kept them from rusting. I saved my hair from the last few haircuts so I can make one to see if it works. I'm confident it will. 

seam ripper and cork

The real secret here is the cork. Of course, where would I be without a seam ripper? I've ripped out 32 seams so far on the corset I'm currently working on. (26 of those were taking apart the pieces from the last fitting, but they count.) I can't imagine picking those seams out with a small pair of scissors. 

But the cork. I have yet to find anything better for capping the end of the seam ripper. Hard plastic caps crack, soft plastic covers are eventually sliced through. I've tried taping covers on, which gums things up, and a small knot of fabric was soon shredded. However, the cork does not come off until I want it to, it protects other items in my sewing kit from the seam ripper, it's easy to put on and take off, and, if I accidentally drop it between the washing machine and the dryer, it's easily replaceable. A cork also makes the seam ripper immediately identifiable. Gone are the days of, "Is that the seam ripper? Nope, it's the screwdriver." If anyone knows of a better stopper for the end of a seam ripper please let me know. 

So let's raise a glass to the cork. Oh, and the seam ripper too.

the tailor's shuriken

Sometimes it's a hassle to have to uncoil the tape measure, line it up against the fabric, and count out 13/32 to mark a spot. Especially if you have to do it multiple times, say for measuring the distance between bone casings or marking how long embroidery stitches must be. A tailor's shuriken is the weapon of choice for these situations. Just rotate the disc to the desired measurement and hold it to the fabric. Easy peasy.

I can not vouch for the accuracy of this as a throwing star, only as a measuring device. I also can not vouch for the accuracy of the term "tailor's shuriken." There could be another name for this tool. I wouldn't use it though. 

salute to scissors

For the next ten days I will be separated from my sewing machine by 2000 miles, so it's time for a salute to sewing tools. First up, scissors. 

I love my scissors. I have many pairs, these are just the first three I grabbed. My favorite are the Gingher 8" dressmaker's shears in the center, they cut fabrics perfectly and stay nice and sharp. I never let them touch paper. That's what those giant ones at the bottom are for, cutting cardstock when patterning. I no longer use those much, I've discovered I can cut patterns much quicker and more accurately with and X-ACTO blade, but they are still an impressive pair of scissors. The little crane embroidery scissors are also from Gingher. When my mother gave them to me I thought, "When am I going to use these?" The answer, all the time. If you enjoy looking at scissors (and who doesn't?) you can browse through museum collections and find interesting ones like this pair.

© Victoria & Albert Museum (museum number 402-1894)

Or you can take a look here and get a nice overview of various scissors designs.

the mighty tailor's ham

I love my tailor's ham. I could not press curved seams without it. I also discovered it's a big help when pinning curved seams together. Here are two pieces, one with a convex (hill) curve and the other with a concave (valley) curve.

Even though the seam line is the same length on each, the convex seam allowance is a wider curve so there is more fabric along the it's edge, which means I can't pin by just matching up the seam allowances. But if I drape the pieces over the ham,

the seam line easily slides into place. Neat.

You don't even have to buy a ham. It's the easiest project. Draw an egg shape about the size of an iron, add seam allowance, and sew a scrap of cotton and a scrap of wool together. Leave an opening on the larger end so you can turn the whole thing right side out and fill the ham. I was told they should be filled with saw dust so if you use steam it is drawn through the fabric. I filled mine with with wood bedding material I picked up at the pet store.

Pack, pack, pack it in. And when you think it's full, pack some more. I jammed the wood chips in with a pestle until my hands were sore. But look at this ham.

setting the grommets

Grommet setting is fun. I've gotten tons of use from my grommet kit.

First the fabric is marked where the grommets will be set.

Then a hole is punched through all the layers of fabric.

The shaft sid of the grommet is set on the base, then the fabric is placed face down pushing the shaft through the hole. The donut part of the grommet goes on the other side, concave side to the fabric. And the die is fit in the hole.

After a couple hits with a hammer the grommet is set. Here they are from the inside, and from the outside of the garment.

Yes, I split a grommet. That's the result of uneven pressure and pounding too hard. This is not something you want to do because the the cut edge can catch on the lacing and weaken it. But once a grommet is set it's impossible to remove without cutting it out of the fabric. 

All I need to do now is insert the boning and add the lacing and this corset is done.

busk fun

Before I insert the busk I need to make sure it's the right length. Since the finished length of the center front will be 9 inches I need to use an 8 inch busk. I could drive to Farthingales and buy one, or I could trim down the 9 inch one I used for the mock-up. An 8 inch busk is $1 cheaper than a 9 inch one, but I will spend $4 for gas. I'm for saving the $4 and learning something new. 

I cut the busk out of the mock-up and marked a half inch off each end.

Then I broke out the Wiss tin snips. Yea.

I trimmed off the ends and clipped the corners,

then smoothed the edges with a file.

As if using the tin snips wasn't already fun enough, I got to use Plasti Dip too. I've had this container of Plasti Dip sitting around, unopened, for years. It worked just like it's supposed to. I dipped the ends in a couple times.

And they look perfect. 

I feel super resourceful.