January 30, 2012

1911 - the last work on the pattern, really.


Welcome to week 5 of the corset sew along! Did I say our patterns were finished? Whoops. But after this last little bit of work they really will be. We need to mark the boning placement since the patterns were slashed and spread, or slashed and shrunk. All you'll need today is the pattern, a pencil, a straight edge and hip curve. You may want a highlighter too.

If the boning runs along the seam, as it does on most pieces if the post Edwardian pattern, you don't need to change a thing. But others not on the seams will shift a bit. Find the center between the boning when the pattern has been spread.


Using the hip curve extend the line to the top and bottom edges of the corset, blending to make a smooth transition.


Sometimes all that needs to be done is extend the lines with a straight edge.


I drew the casings in and highlighted them, but the center line is really all that is necessary since the casing will be centered on this line. Here is the competed pattern.


Later this week we will sew the bone casing and attach the back facing. How is the corset construction progressing?

8 comments:

  1. SO, after being pulled by life (and my mom getting sick and me having to go take care of her) out of commission for a month, I have returned to attempt to do this with you. I believe catch up will not be hard for me, but I may be a little behind for a while. Just wanted to let you know that I am here and going to try and do this with you. I hope I am not too late! I have been reading every day, even though I have not been doing it!

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    1. You're not too late at all. Just jump back in!

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  2. Hello Jo, so I'm getting ready to start putting the finished corset together. Using the 1911 pattern, there are bones at every seam (2 per seam front panel, back panel), but I can almost make out boning at the center of the side piece, 2 of the shorter bones at the center of that panel. Is that right? I think I'm going to end up with more of the long boning than I need. If so, how do you trim them?

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  3. There are two in the first casing, which runs through the first panel and the first gore, and there are indeed two in the casing along the seam by the back panel. The others are two in the casing on the second panel, which starts near the center but finishes by the seam, and one 1/2 inch wide bone running through the third panel and second gore. If you ordered precut bones according to the supply list they should fit. But if they are too long trim them to the length needed with tin snips, file the edges so they aren't square and pointy, then tip the ends.
    It's the same process as shown here.
    http://bridgesonthebody.blogspot.com/2009/03/busk-fun.html
    Does that help?

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  4. Mine doesn't have gores, it's the pattern you provided, the 1911 corset, not the Corset and Crinoline. When it got enlarged I think I lost some of the detail, but thank you for the boning tip. I never thought I'd need tin snips in my sewing stash :)

    I've sewn all of the panels together, so I'll be ironing and trimming now.

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  5. Sorry, I'm working on the post Edwardian version.

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  6. Whoops, here you go then. There are two 1/4 inch wide, 9 inch long bones in the first, second, and third casings, which are on the first seam, the second seam, and in the center of the third panel. There is one 1/2 inch wide, 10 inch long bone in the fourth casing, which is on the third seam. And finally, there are two 1/4 inch wide, 16 1/2 inch long bones in the fifth casing, which is the fourth seam.

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