October 22, 2009

1925 mock-up

I'm permitting my flesh to fall into the corselet. 

I did this by altering the pattern roughly to my natural measurements. The waistline on the Norah Waugh's pattern is 31 1/2 inches, and the hips are 40. I believe the bust was 35 1/2, but I've already thrown away the excess part of the pattern that was written on. So this corselet was not for a woman with a slight, boyish, figure. I took a couple inches off at the bust and hips, and 3 1/2 off the waist, figuring I'd take more off the rest when fitting. I pinned the mock-up together on the left front side, where the hooks and eyes will be. Then I pinched fabric and pinned the excess while looking in a mirror. The area above the waist needs to be snug, I want to feel secure should I be doing the Charleston. Here's a side view.

What are those unattractive wrinkles at the side? And across the back too?

Too much fabric. I'll have to remove a chunk across the center of the side and back pieces. The gores are set a bit wide, and I also don't like how wide and boxy those two seams look above the  gores. As for fitting the elastic gores; I figured the elastic is there to allow movement, so the hips should fit correctly without any stretch. When the finished garment is made with elastic it will then fit properly have the added stretch for flexibility. 

The silhouette I'm aiming for is the last image on the Bridges on the Body Title bar. I should be closer after more pattern adjusting and a second mock-up. 

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