November 2, 2009

gore raising

I ripped out the hip gores, bumped them up an inch, and pinned the mock-up on. The waist wrinkles were smaller, but still there. Raised the gores another 1/2 inch and put the mock-up on one more time.

At last. The gores need to be lengthened and reshaped since the corselet is now loose across the backside, but I think the big fitting issue has been solved. 

Question. Should I be concerned the way the grain angles on the side panel? It's straight at the bust where it's snug, but below the waist it angles to the front. What to do?


  1. Would it have to be recut and laid out with a change in the direction of the lengthwise line (is that the warp or the woof? - I think you know what I mean.)
    On the other hand, the current line provides a little bias action. Does that help or hurt the fit?

  2. Looks good -- is it binding the bust at all?

  3. i would think that as long as it doesn't stretch out of shape too much, it should be a problem. Since the top is straight, you would have to cut a separate piece to make the grain line straight all the way down, and that's really not a piece where you want a seam (it seems to me)

  4. i think the way the grain on the side piece angles to the front is fine, and may even be a bonus ...

    does it feel secure, or insecure? does it lie smoothly, or crumple?

    were there side-front gores in the original? if not, it seems as though that torque would be inevitable...

    (this is viviana rowe again; blogger won't let me use my livejournal id

  5. That's it then, I'm not going to stress about it. Since the fit is working I'm not going to fool with it. Thanks for your comments, they help!