June 11, 2010

foundation construction

The plan is to make the foundation separately from the bodice fashion fabric then attached them together. I don't want two layers of coutil for the foundation, just one with additional fabric to make channels for the boning. I made patterns to cut the channel fabric by lining the pattern up with the channels on the grain line and tracing around what was needed.

before I added the channel pieces I sewed the other pieces together, stay stitched, then graded the seam allowances.

Then I laid the channel pieces in place and stitched using 1/2 inch wide tape as a guide to keep the stitch lines perfect.

Here is the back of the bodice foundation partially completed.

And here is what it will look like from the interior of the garment.

Nice and clean. I am worried about the waviness happening. I pressed the fabric before I cut it, after it was stitched together, and again after the seams were graded, but the waves. I believe it will be gone once the boning is in place, but still. Stupid waves. Anyway, I'll build the front of the bodice foundation the same way then stitch them together. Then the lacing, then I'll move on to the outer layer and the sleeves.


  1. what kind of thread are you sewing with? When I have seen that kind of waviness in seams with my sewing, it has been when I was using polyester thread (or poly core cotton) -- it tends to stretch, especially when it is wound onto the bobbin, and then snap back as it is sewn, causing waviness.

    :) Linda

  2. Wow! I recently learned about your blog and have added you to my list of ones I follow. I'm very impressed with the attention to detail that you are applying to each finished piece. Such wonderful work! I'm curious if you will write a book about it when you're done.

  3. What a great idea with the taping of the boning channels!

  4. HI Linda! Thread stretch is something I hadn't thought of. Hmmm.

    Thanks Ruhammie!

    V and E, that artist's tape is the best. It's low tack, like a Post-it note, and comes in several widths. It eliminates that problem of going just slightly off on one line and amplifying it over the course of several.

  5. Thanks for the tape trick. I feel like I'm learning lots of great things from following your blog.

  6. From briefly looking at the picture ( without being able to study the sewing with my mittens ) it looks like the thread is tightish. Did you try to alter the stich ease? I was taught to always check the stich on extra fabric, since all materials and threads act differently. I´ve seen it hold truth.

    Besides that, I´m still thrilled to continue keeping track at your corset making. It was you, in fact, who inspired me to sew a few long line bras to daily use. And lingerie in general. I absolutely heart your wonderful blog gorgeous corsets and wish for many many many updates.