May 19, 2011

exterior layer

The exterior layer has been sewn together. Here is how the pattern on the center front matched up.

Not bad. The seam allowances of the interior layer have been pressed to the center front, the seam allowances of the exterior to the center back. Here are the two layers both face down, you can see how the seams match up with the allowances laying in opposite directions.

When I put the two layers together the seam allowances will serve bone casings. This is my least favorite way to assemble a corset, all those seam allowances create a lot of bulk, and it's difficult to get the two layers to match up perfectly, but it's the way that makes sense here. Once the layers are stitched together it will be time to insert the bust gores. I've been wondering if I should quilt the gore layers. Any thoughts?


  1. I love the pattern matching at CF, beautiful!

    If you feel the bust gores need extra support or decoration then absolutely quilt them. In your mockups the gores don't visually stand out against the center strip they're sewn to, which looks wider than in the drawing. If the final corset has similar dimensions maybe quilting the whole "cup" would look better? Or V-shaped cording inside the gores? I hope you don't mind my brain dump--whatever you do will be gorgeous :)

  2. All I can say is "Wow!" You planned that, right?

    Side note: I always get super excited when I see you've posted something new. Thanks for sharing with us!

  3. Thanks for reminding me about that ultra wide section between the gores on the mock up, Summer. That was pinned using a quarter inch seam allowance but I think if I use a half inch at the top it will look more like the drawing. I am concerned about support at the bust line so maybe I'll go ahead an quilt. Thanks for your input!

    Jessica, I was mostly concerned with where the flower near the waistline would fall, it would look weird if it sat just below the bust or on the hip. I did aline the center front along the boarder design of the napkin but I wasn't 100% certain how it would look when sewn together. That the design narrowed as is traveled downward was a nice surprise!

  4. Gorgeous pattern matching! I would definitely quilt the bust gores - I've found it does an amazing job of adding support and smoothing out the curves of corsets. Quilting or cording everything is my new favourite obsession :-)

    A question: How do you get your seams to match up on the front and lining when you do this style of corset? The only way I have found that really works is to hand-stitch through both layers, right at the seam. It works beautifully, but it's soooo time consuming, and I wonder if anyone else has found a satisfactory alternative.

  5. I too have found hand basting the only way to get the seams of both layers to line up. Fortunately there are only 3 seams to each side so hopefully it won't take too long. Thanks for input regarding the quilting!