February 24, 2010

corselet casings

The boning across the belly will be contained in pre-made bone casing tape. The tape is available by the yard in different widths and in black or white. I'm using 1/2 inch wide black tape.

I basted each casing in place, folding the open end under at one end, but leaving the other open so I can slide the boning in. Then I laid artist's tape across the front as a guide for stitching. Even though I used low tack tape I did not want the adhesive pulling the brocade so I stuck it to my jeans a few times before putting on the corselet. 

Since the basting was at the top of the casing I sewed the across the bottom of the casing first. I don't know if It would have made a difference either had I sewed across the top first. Probably not. After the first line of stitching was done I sewed the second right on the basting stitches.

The first casing from the front.

And from the back.

Now the question, flat or spiral boning?


  1. I'd say flat, if they're straight seams. Might be a bit easier.

  2. That whole era is about having freer, less restricting corsets, so I'd say go with the spiral. :)

  3. Since the whole point of that look is the supression of curves and a boyish (instead of womanly) figure, I'd go with the flats. There isn't really enough there to cause squish, just enough to make sure the area remains smoother in profile. Spirals might have too much give with only three bones.

  4. There are good reasons for both types, thus my dilemma. Wait! I just realized I since the casing is open on one side I slide both types in and see which works better. Problem solved.