1911 - the corset on a form

Here is is, the 1911 corset, finished and on a form.

Yea! Thanks again to all of you who were along for the ride, whether you were sewing along with me or helping with suggestions. And thank you for your patience these last few weeks while I was unexpectedly away. It's nice to be back and I hope to maintain the momentum I gathered during the sew along. I'm so glad we did it! Now for more of the corset.

I realized while dressing the form that I hadn't made a bow for the center front, and I still think it can use one, but I was not going to hold off taking pictures for that. I'm very happy with the shape. I hope it looks as nice on me as it does on the form. I love the Liberty print. Love it. I also am glad I chose to add that small edge of lace beneath the trim on the top edge. It's just enough to set off the top against the black and white flowers. Let's take a look from another angle.

Not bad. You can see the start of an inflatable form blow out here, please ignore the stuffing that is falling out at the center back. That's not pretty. Look instead at the pleasing curves and long lines. Here's the view from the back.

The form is askew because as I pushed the stuffing up under the corset it started tipping off the support pole. It fell off after I snapped this and was so deflated I couldn't continue using it. I got more use out of that blow up form that expected, I guess it's time to find a real one now. But the corset looks alright. You can see the flossing arrows aim toward the center waistline on both the back and the front. The flossing on the single 1/2 inch bone is where the direction changes.

All in all, a nice corset. When I get a chance to throw it on I'll post more pictures. As always, the list of statistics.

approximately 1 yard fabric - Liberty of London cotton scarf flatlined with white cotton shirting

1- 10 inch busk

8 - 9 inch ¼ inch wide flat steel bones

8 - 16 ½ long inch ¼ inch wide flat steel bones

2 -10 inch long ½ inch wide flat steel bones

1 yard – lace

1 yard twill tape for waist stay

10 yards - 2 inch wide bias to trim top & bottom edges, bone casings & garter covering

5 yards - 3/4 inch wide bone casing

1½ yard - elastic for garters

6 garter slides and grips

40 - size double zero grommets

7 yards - double face satin ribbon or cord for lacing

1 - spool thread

number of seams picked out - 1

spring

After a few weeks away I've returned home and I'll be photographing the 1911 corset tomorrow. Yea! When I left it was cool and rainy, I came back to this.

Gorgeousness. I can't decide which flowers I like more, these or the ones printed on my 1911 corset fabric.

the new corset, short above the waist

This dress is described as an "odd gown" in a March 16, 1912 article about what the best dressed women are going to wear.

I don't think it looks any more or less odd than any of the other dresses pictured in the the Ogden, Utah Evening Standard. It definitely would be odd if worn with a turn-of-the-century S bend corset instead of "the new corset, short above the waist, and with it's accompanying brassier." I think any of the Henderson's corsets shown in this ad found in the North Platte Semi-Weekly Tribune ad qualify as "the new corset."

I've been looking for an ad with a corset cut just like Norah Waugh's 1911 patter and haven't found one. The second one in the top row comes close, but without gores. The corset on the top right looks like the post Edwardian pattern used for the sew along. Are there still stragglers out there finishing up sew along corsets? I'll be posting photos of my 1911 corset next week, if you aren't quite done you've got the weekend to finish those last details. Just keep sewing. Don't forget to share your images on the flickr page. It is so exciting seeing the finished pieces! They are looking great, you are so talented!

pay no attention to the cute smiling child

I know she looks like the life of the party in her stylish wig, but it's the studious one you should be looking at. The five year old with an embroidery hoop. That's me! I don't know if you can see the similarity between this picture of my sister and the clothespin doll I made of her, but I'm sure you'll agree I haven't changed a bit.

a completely different 1911 corset

I've been called from my desk/sewing machine and will be out of town for the next week or two. I won't be able to post any images of the 1911 corset until I return. I will have sporadic corset related posts though, starting with this patent of a completely different 1911 corset.

The back adjustment system is something I plan on trying. It will be a few corsets down the road, but there is a Corset and Crinolines pattern I have in mind for testing it out. I will not be bathing in the corset though.

For those working on sew along corsets, keep sewing, keep posting images on the flickr page. Even though I won't be adding updates about my corset for a bit I'll still a click or two away to answer any questions that come up as you are constructing your corsets.

1911 - flossing front and back

The flossing is done, which means the corset is done. Yea. Today I have some up close flossing pictures to share with you. Flossing seen from the front of the corset,

and from inside.

The stitches were done according to my diagram, the only difference is I did round the bottom edge instead of stitching straight across. I tell myself the irregularity of stitches from the interior lets you know a human made this corset, not a machine. I like the arrows to point toward the waist, leading the eye up and toward the center of the body rather than directing it outward.

Flossing is a hand killer, kudos to all of you who added it to your sew along corsets. Did you embroider with a hot water bottle nearby to rest your weary hand on like I did?

savoye corset

I was going to post the flossing on the 1911 corset, but after two days of looking I have not found the floss I purchased. I bought it, brought it home, where did I put it? I'm sure once I buy more floss the original bundle will magically appear. In place of flossing I'll share a corset I made a 1905 patent diagram and also wrote about for Foundations Revealed.

Emile Savoye's design has always intrigued me and I learned so much by making a corset using the information found in his patent. Unfortunately, not all corsets turn out perfectly. Sad but true. This one is still pretty good though.

Pros - Decent fit, very interesting pattern, clean construction, pleasing color scheme, the desired silhouette was achieved, learned new ideas about boning and patterning, and I enjoyed learning about the man who designed the corset.

Cons - Wonder Under. You try new techniques, some you like and will use again and some leave you cold. Fusing silk dupioni to cotton with Wonder Under is one of those that left me cold. The resulting fabric had no give and the bias drape is vital for this corset since there are only three pieces per side. Maybe part of the problem was my choice to use dupioni to begin with, it's not a fabric known for it's figure hugging abilities. But the fusible certainly didn't help.

The article is now available for free on the Foundations Revealed site so if you'd like to learn more about this corset pop over and enjoy a read!

A quick word to those working on the sew along corsets, just keep sewing. If that corset is close to being done you're almost there. Slide those bones in, sew that binding on, attach those garters, add some flossing, what ever those last tasks are let's tackle them this weekend. The pictures of finished corsets are coming in on the flickr page and they look wonderful. I am so impressed with all the skilled work! I look forward to adding mine to the bunch!

1911 - this end up

I decided to let a small edge of lace peek out under the bias trim at the top of the corset. Just enough to tell me "this end up."

Of course the garters already say, "this end down," but you get the idea. I'm still ambivalent about the trim on top but I think most of my problem is the shine. I wanted the garters to be satin and I wanted the rest of the trim to match so shine I got. Anyway, best to quit second guessing and just keep sewing. Tomorrow I'll show the flossing from the front and the back and I'll take photos of the finished corset this weekend.

Those of you sewing along who stuck to the schedule are amazing. I am impressed. And those of you who a running a bit behind, like me, just keep sewing. Anybody else finishing up the last steps?