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corselet construction issues
After one more fitting of the 1925 corselet to fine tune the gores I'm finally ready to move forward. Before I start cutting the fabric I have to figure out what type of seams to I'll be using so I can allot the right amount of seam allowance. I've never seen an actual foundation garment from this era, but I'm thinking a flat felled seam, which I've never used, is the right one for the job. Also, the pattern shows three bones running horizontally across the waist area. I can't figure out what purpose these serve. It makes sense that vertical boning is needed to hold the fabric in place so it doesn't collapse downwards, or ride up, so it maintains it's shape. But horizontal boning? Does the fabric need to be held so it doesn't squeeze inward at the belly? It doesn't seem to be doing that in any of the mock-ups. There must be some reason. It's not for me to start declaring designated materials unnecessary, so I'll put a panel behind the silk for the bones. Spirals seem like the way to go, but again, I'm guessing.
Posts
Maybe to hold the stomach in to really give that tomboy look?
ReplyDeleteI find flat felled seams to be very attractive.
ReplyDeleteI'm with Susan on the flat-felled seams. They are neater and more secure than anything else.
ReplyDeleteGoodness me.... You certainly are very clever/brave/ambitious! That ribbon corset you made is AMAZING! I am very jealous of your skills!
ReplyDeleteLeya, you may be on to something. The bones could hold the stomach in by keeping the fabric from stretching at the belly. I'm going with flat felled seams, thanks for the input Susan and Jenny. And thanks Lily!
ReplyDeleteHi there, just found your blog which looks fascinating! I'll be doing a victorian corset workshop later this month but looks like you've put together a massive resource here. Look forward to reading past and future posts!
ReplyDeleteThank you Clare!
ReplyDeleteThe fabric you have chosen for it is stunning. I'm really looking forward to your step by step account.
ReplyDeleteI knew women in the 20s bound themselves to be as flat as possible, but for some reason, I never imagined the use of corsets to be involved (I have visions of white muslin fastened across the bust - must have seen that in a film!). I thought the 20s were when corsets were thrown out of the window... but is the truth that it was only the Edwardian mono-bosom that was sent packing, whilst the corset itself kept on going strong?
Shakespeare in Love! That a film where a white strip of fabric is used to bind the bust. I have tried to find evidence of that technique being used in the 20's and have found absolutely nothing. Must have been modern foundation garments then.
ReplyDeleteI am way late but you might still read this anyway ... My great-grandmas both used binding when they where very young and I know their mothers did for most of their lives. As far as I know there was also a method of pushing the bust up. I just can't quite work up the courage to ask them more about it ^^
ReplyDeleteHow interesting! I'd love to learn their secrets!
ReplyDelete