November 2, 2009

gore raising


I ripped out the hip gores, bumped them up an inch, and pinned the mock-up on. The waist wrinkles were smaller, but still there. Raised the gores another 1/2 inch and put the mock-up on one more time.


At last. The gores need to be lengthened and reshaped since the corselet is now loose across the backside, but I think the big fitting issue has been solved. 

Question. Should I be concerned the way the grain angles on the side panel? It's straight at the bust where it's snug, but below the waist it angles to the front. What to do?

5 comments:

  1. Would it have to be recut and laid out with a change in the direction of the lengthwise line (is that the warp or the woof? - I think you know what I mean.)
    On the other hand, the current line provides a little bias action. Does that help or hurt the fit?
    Liz

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  2. Looks good -- is it binding the bust at all?

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  3. i would think that as long as it doesn't stretch out of shape too much, it should be a problem. Since the top is straight, you would have to cut a separate piece to make the grain line straight all the way down, and that's really not a piece where you want a seam (it seems to me)

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  4. i think the way the grain on the side piece angles to the front is fine, and may even be a bonus ...

    does it feel secure, or insecure? does it lie smoothly, or crumple?

    were there side-front gores in the original? if not, it seems as though that torque would be inevitable...

    (this is viviana rowe again; blogger won't let me use my livejournal id

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  5. That's it then, I'm not going to stress about it. Since the fit is working I'm not going to fool with it. Thanks for your comments, they help!

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