January 31, 2010

elastic gores in

The elastic hunt ended in spandex. After a great tip on where to find 12 inch elastic, (Thanks imblebee.) I realized the gores measured almost 12 1/2 inches long, before adding any seam allowance. Only after going with the spandex back up did I see the comment about sewing pieces of elastic together, (Thanks again imblebee!) which I really wish I would have done. Very Herve Leger. Much nicer than than what I ended up with, though what I ended up with isn't horribly bad. 

I made each gore two layers of spandex, and basted the layers together. I attached one side of the gore to the back of the corsetlet, seam allowance to the outside, trimmed, folded, and pressed just like the other flat felled seams. I pinned the folded edge in place, leaving the tail I patterned hanging out. The tail is there to give me something to work with, something to grip  when when working on this finicky area.

I sewed 1/16 from the fold just like before to make a flat felled seam on one side of the gore. Then I pinned the back piece with the gore to the side piece and treated them as one piece. One long seam was sewn to attach them, then I trimmed the seam allowance on the one side.

After the usual folding and pressing I pinned like crazy to hold everything in place for the last pass.

And here is a close up of join.

Not bad at all. I should say it took me an entire day to sew both gores in. I had to psyche myself up before each step. Once, I realized I was actually pacing back and forth thinking about the sewing involved, and I'm normally not a pacer. Here's a shot of the corselet so far.

Hook and eye time!


  1. That is breathtakingly beautiful fabric! The sewing is breathtaking as well!

  2. Your work is just stunning. Beautiful detail.

  3. I just found your blog and I love it! I'm a seamstress myself. I've done minimal corsetry, but always admired it. You have definitely inspired me to build a corset soon! Looking forward to more of your lovely work. Hearts -Erin

  4. My admiration for your work is without words...I just discovered your blog...you are inspiring me to learn how to make a perfectly fitted bra with all the detail I always wanted...off to my stash ...thank you -- I have learned much and will revisit to absorb the techniques

  5. Thank you herhimnbryn and Seamstress Erin. And Anonymous, you are too kind.