rebel chic

My enthusiasm for books I've purchased has been documented. So you can image how thrilling it is when I've had some involvement in the production of a book.

Katharine Hepburn: Rebel Chic, written by Jean Druesedow, director of the Kent State University Museum, is being released today. It celebrates the unique style of Katharine Hepburn. In addition to essays contributed by top fashion historians, it also contains never before seen images of her costumes and personal wardrobe. Many photographed by me!

Let me show you my favorite photo in the book.

That is the make up case of some one who was very aware of her appearance, all the while cleverly convincing the public that she couldn't care less. The book is filled with wonderful publicity and behind-the-scenes images. Fans of Katharine Hepburn will of course find plenty to enjoy about the book. But so will those interested in costume design and of course those who love Hollywood's Golden Era.

If I owned a pair of khakis I'd wear them to today to celebrate her sense of style, but I don't. I'm not nearly as sensible as Miss Hepburn.

jet setting and a new book

Instead of sewing I've been traveling. Again. During my adventures I was able to visit the Victoria & Albert Museum and while there I picked up this book.

Yea! Underwear: Fashion in Detail by Eleri Lynn! I have been anxiously waiting for this book to be released since I learned last year that it was being published. I was at the V&A the day it became available and snapped up a copy. Here is what happened while I was at the counter paying for it.

Me: "Yea! I've been waiting for this book to come out for months."

Clerk: "It's a great book."

Me: "Oh good. I haven't even flipped through it yet. I can't wait to sit down and take a good look. Oh! Would you take my picture with it?"

Clerk: "Of course. Will you be signing them later?"

Me: "What?"

Clerk: "What?"

Me: "Signing?"

Clerk: "Are you the author?"

Me: "No."

Clerk: "Oh."

To his credit the clerk did not loose enthusiasm for picture taking after he realized I was not the author. In fact, he kept retaking pictures because he felt the light wasn't good, or someone walked in the background, or the photo was poorly framed. I admire that kind of dedication. Go V&A.

The book is filled with close up photos, diagrams, and descriptions, of a variety of undergarments from the V&A Fashion, Jewelry, and Accessories collection. There is something for everyone, nightgowns, stockings, Queen Victoria's drawers, men's underwear, bras from all eras, stays, garters, crinolines, and of course, corsets. Like all of the Fashion in Detail series, the items shown are beautifully photographed and the descriptions are clear and informative. The red damask stays that inspired me to tie the shoulder straps on my 1780 stays in the back are there. There's also a plain white satin corset from the Christian Dior autumn/winter 2006-7 collection that is somehow inspiring to me because it reminds me that even the best in the world need multiple fittings and deal with the same with fabric problems we all do. It's still gorgeous even with the imperfections.

I'm going to sit down now with a cup of tea and do some more reading. Then hopefully I'll get around to sewing.

warner's rust-proof corsets

A lovely illustration from an ad for Warner's Rust-Proof Corsets published in the April, 1908 edition of The Designer.

Pretty, pretty, pretty. The copy explains how Warner's has advanced corsetry with rust-proof boning, stocking supports, and "now in 1908 the standardizing of the construction of our 61 styles, so that every corset bearing the name of Warner's, whether selling at $1.oo or $5.00, shall be equal in wear and unbreakableness." I love that word, unbreakableness.

I found the magazine at a garage sale tucked between a 1978 JC Penney catalog and a Sears catalog from the same era. Not wanting to alert anyone that I had found something cool, I kept it between the two telephone book sized catalogs and said, "I'll take these three." "At a quarter each that'll be 75¢." Score!

You learn a lot about how women lived when you look at an antique magazine like this. In addition to stories, cooking advise, and household tips, there are several pages of the latest fashions for the lady of the house and her children. There are ads for the things you'd expect, hats, cleaning products, and food. And some for things you might not, like the two ads for raising poultry at home.

what I aspire to

I received the nicest gift today. A first edition copy of Paris Frocks at Home, published in 1930 by Butterick Publishing. This is what I want to be.

Elegant, calmly sewing as the scent of orange blossom drifts in on a light breeze. Notice the lack of clutter. Do I hear the sounds of Vivaldi coming from a nearby string quartet? I think I do. And such dainty feet. I will refrain from rambling about the realities of sewing, and space, and cats that attack patterns, and simply be inspired to tidy myself and my workspace up a bit.  

to be cleaned

I can not blame the cat. It's my own fault for not storing the summer corset properly. After the last wearing I aired it out and laid it in a box. I did not put the cover on the box and nothing makes a better bed for a cat than a low sided box. As I was pulling out the 1925 corselet mock-up (which was in a see through plastic container with a lid) I stumbled across this.

In the picture it looks like just a loose layer of dust that can be brushed off, but there is ground in grime across the entire front of the corset. So, cleaning. The section about cleaning in my 1921 copy of Corsets and Close Fitting Patterns published by the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences says to lay the corset on a clean table or in a wash tub and scrub with a brush and hot soap suds. After scrubbing it should be rinsed several times then pulled and stretched lengthwise to remove wrinkles. It should then be hung in the sun and when almost dry it should be worn for a few minutes to to stretch it to the correct shape. Then rehung to dry completely. 

I like the technique of putting the corset on when damp to give it the correct shape. But scrubbing? I'm nervous about scrubbing the corset. Maybe sponging would be better. I'd given this corset a light wash before, but now it needs a real cleaning. If anyone has any tips that can help I would love to hear them, otherwise I'll just wait until there is a sunny day and get to work. 

edith head - how to dress for success

Having been laid low by a bad cold I just got back to working on the 1780 stays today. Yikes. So until I have some progress pictures I thought I'd post some advice from someone who would know foundation garments, Edith Head.

"If you think the very same undergarments will suffice for all the items in your wardrobe you're mistaken." So true, Edith. Equally as true, "Aside form the importance of your underthings in shaping your outer silhouette, there is the psychological factor of feeling lovely from the skin out." I'm sure I'd feel lovely in something like this.

These pearls of wisdom, and the drawing, are from her book, How to Dress for Success, published in 1967 by Random House. I found this book in a hip used book store near my house. Imagine my surprise when I opened the front cover and saw this.

Sold. 

Actually, the book had me when I saw the cute illustrations and realized it wasn't John T. Molloy's, Women's Dress for Success. The 1970's book that I feel was responsible for ruining many women's sense of style. Edith Head's signature was just icing on the cake.

Alright, now that I've got that out of my system, back to the sewing machine.