The coutil strips were sewn together to make four panels, two front and two back. The seams were always sewn in the same direction, from the center outward. Then the seam allowances were ironed away from the waistline. The strips of satin were sewn together the same way, but the seam allowances were ironed toward the waistline.
The seam allowances were graded, then the panels were laid face-t0-face and the top and bottom edges were sewn together.
Those seam allowances were pressed open, then graded.
The panels were flipped right side out. If you look closely you can see the seam allowances pointing in opposite directions.
Finally, I pressed the panels again, and stitched the satin to the coutil close to the seam line of each piece, and along the top and bottom edges.