July 8, 2011

1906 mode illustrée corset


I've been diligently sewing, just not the 1844 corset. I should be able to post some progress soon, but in the meantime I thought I'd share a corset I made for a Foundations Revealed article.


The pattern came from La Mode Illustrée number 52, published December 30, 1906. If you've never seen a Mode Illustrée pattern hold tight, they are not for the faint of heart.


I know! The most difficult thing about making this corset was pulling the pattern out of that crazy roadmap. Once that was done the construction was pretty straight forward. I used an unbleached linen canvas fused with cotton batiste so it was very lightweight if not particularly striking. In an attempt to create a low Edwardian bosom I dressed the model in a strapless bra slung as low as possible, which looks a bit odd to me now. But I think the curves from the back are perfect.


Not too far off Anna Held's chorus girls pictured here in 1903.


I hope when I get around to making an Edwardian era corset for myself the effect is as dramatic.

17 comments:

  1. Jo, can I ask what is going on with that pattern? What are all the lines? With a pattern like that, I would have never expected such a beautiful result (I'd have ended up with.... unintentional origami.)

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  2. I know persons who have this shape naturally and people who are almost reversed (curvy tummy, flat back). That makes me quite curious to how much of the shape comes from the pattern, and how much from the person.

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  4. Just found your amazing blog while looking for inspiration for the Illustration Friday topic this week - "Stay". I thought of corsets and sails. Delighted by your blog and amazed at your fortitude and determination! My head hurts just looking at your pattern...not sure how you got that gorgeous garment out of that spider web! Your blog is like the Julie/Julia movie - only with sewing machines instead of ovens! May I use some of your photos for reference in my illustration? :)

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  5. Wow! All I can say is Wow! This would drive me crazy.

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  6. Thanks everyone!

    Small Potatoes, Mode Illustrée patterns were printed with all the pieces for several garments on one page. Each garment has a different dotted line. It's confusing but not impossible to tease a pattern out of those lines. Like so many things all it takes is time.

    Mette Wikkelsø, quite a bit of that shape is the result of the pattern. The model slightly curvier than the original pattern so I did trim 1 1/2 inches from the waist and added 1/2 inch to the hips, so there was some change but not a huge alteration. The corset gave a 4 inch waist reduction and shaped the hip curves nicely. The garters really anchored the corset down which kept the belly flat and made a difference in shape, the bottom front winged out more without them.

    Liz, thank you for reading! I hadn't thought of Julie/Julia but now that you mention it there is a similarity. Feel free to use my photos as reference. Good luck with your illustration!

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  7. Ohhhh! That is soo cool:) I really should put together a version of it, -you FR article made that quite easy!

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  8. I love this corset, and the photograph of the line of corseted women, what a delightful and yet slightly disturbing image. Love what you are doing.

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  9. http://tinyurl.com/3v2smgj

    shows underwear and corsets "in action".

    Keep sewing, your garments and insights are fascinating.

    Thank you.

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  10. You do really lovely work. This corset is very well executed, as usual. You've really got the shape spot on!

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  11. What a nice corset. I want to wear it.

    Lisa from Electric Bass Guitar

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  12. do you take commissions? no, seriously.. i mean it

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  13. Thanks for asking Morlune, but no, I don't accept commissions. Someday, but right now I don't know where I'd find the time!

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  14. This is a fabulous corset and just the style I have been after for an experiment.
    Can you tell me where to find the pattern? Are reproductions of those patterns commercially available online anywhere?
    Love all your work, I'm going to subscribe.

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  15. Hi Jenny! You can purchase a copy of the pattern from the Au Fil Du Temps store on ebay. It is from La Mode Illustrée number 52, published December 30,1906.
    http://stores.ebay.com/AU-FIL-DU-TEMPS
    Happy sewing!

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