I decided to pin the godets in place so I could do the second fitting without fabric flopping open.
Then I tried on the mock up. It turns out that pretty hourglass shape I liked from the first fitting was the result of excess fabric.
Too bad. It looks like I pinned out a little too much from the top near the shoulder blade. But other than that the back looks OK. Now from the front.
I can see I need to blend the reduction at the side hip all the way to the waist to give a smoother line. And there still is a gap at the bottom that is even more visible from the side.
Maybe removing some from from the bottom of the second panel and blending to the waist will help? Maybe standing straighter? I'd swear I was standing straight, but clearly I'm not. I also think that the busk I'm using is too rigid. The illustration in Corsets and Crinolines shows a slight indentation at the waist. By drawing a line on a piece of vellum and laying it over the drawing of the corset it's easy to see.
The busk on mine makes such a hard line that it pulls out from the waist. That shouldn't be, right? Any suggestions?