However, there are still problems with the back.
That's not pretty. The back princess seams look better closer together, and the added length at the bottom edge helps, but those wrinkles! I can't kid myself and say they will disappear when the corselet is pulled down by the garters. That should help, as will functioning shoulder straps,and fabric heavier that quilter's cotton, but I think what really need to do is shave a bit off the seam between the waist and shoulder blade. If I can get that area to fit as snugly as the front then maybe the top won't sag downward. I don't know. Fitting oneself is difficult.
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I do belive that it sags because of the pattern piece being to long for your back, I have this problem since my back is short but I have a full bust. I always have to take 5cm (2inches) of the back pieces of everything I make, making it tighter does not really work.
ReplyDeletetry and shorten it perhaps 1 inch and see it it gets better.
I have drawn a little paint picture on how I shorten my patterns
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/Cattislearningtofly/shorteningpattern.jpg
I forgot to write that the red in the picture is what you should remove from the pattern :) I simply fold it and tape it, that way one can restore the pattern if one wants to
ReplyDeletei could be way off, but can you shorten the back waist? maybe by moving the hip gores up higher or just take some of the body fabric out along a horizontal line?
ReplyDeleteFitting oneself is a pain in the *ss. There is only so much bending and craning your neck can take ; )
ReplyDeleteI agree with your thoughts. One question, will you be using elastic in the final garment? I think shortening the waist at the CB would help.
It could be that you have shorter middleback(neck to waist) than the pattern has, so that you have to cut some off straight across the back(horizontally). You could try and pin it and see if it helps. Good job on the front though, the silhouette looks perfect for the 20's
ReplyDeleteYou guys are great! Based on your comments I'm going to take a decent chunk out of the middle back. Catherine, that diagram is wonderful. Thank for the help!
ReplyDeleteI forgot to add, yes imblebee, I will be using elastic in the final garment. And cathrin I apologize, I misspelled your name. Sorry about that. Thanks again everyone for the advise!
ReplyDeleteA day late since you have already re-drafted but...another approach would have been to alter the hip gussets. To my eye, it's not so much too long at the back but that the high-hips are too tight. Raising where the gussets started would have raised the flair and let the coset settle down to where it should sit. Any extra lenght could then be shaved from the top or bottom and the original grainlines would have been maintained.
ReplyDeleteYou're right about the high hip being too tight. I discovered this after I sewed the new mock-up (see the gingham mock-up post) so this suggestion comes just in the nick of time. Thanks Bookworm1860!
ReplyDelete