hong kong finish

The Toile tends to fray so I'm finishing the edges of the fabric in a totally non-period manor. The Hong Kong finish. Aside from encasing the edges to protect them, it gives the finished seams the prettiest look. And it's easy too.

Start by laying 1 inch wide bias trim along the seam edge of the fabric, which is face up. Sew about 1/4 inch from the edge. (I have small seam allowances so this example is sewn at about half that distance.)

Fold back the bias and press, then fold it to the underside of the fabric and press again. Stitch down about 1/8 inch from the edge. (Again, mine is smaller.)

Done. 

I trimmed the bias allowance on the underside to 1/4 inch, but with wider seam allowances that wouldn't be necessary. Here's everything after the seams are sewn together and the allowances are pressed out.

Isn't that pretty? I love it. I'm going with the off-white thread by the way. I've never used this technique before and it does take a little extra time, but not much. And I think it will be worth it because when the stays are done they will look extra nice from the inside.

stays cut

Seam allowance was added when the patterned was traced onto the fabric. 3/8 inch looks so small when I'm used to seeing 1/2. There is no seam allowance on the bottom or sides of the tabs, the neckline and underarm, or the shoulder straps.

The Toile is not flimsy, but it's not the tightest weave so I thought I should beck it with something to help stabilize it and also prevent any show through of the denim. This is the cotton voile (Or is it batiste, what is the difference? And this also came from the fabric stash.) that I affixed to the back using Sullivan's Quilt Basting Spray. 

I don't expect it to completely "eliminate tedious hand basting and pinning" as the label claims, but I do think it will help hold the thin, floaty voile in place while I baste.

the rest of the supplies

The boning for the stays will be sandwiched between two layers of fabric, the exterior Toile layer, and an interior denim layer. The edges will be bound with navy bias binding.

The denim was purchased for a quilting project because it was lightweight and the perfect indigo. When I had difficulty getting a needle through I took a better look at the fabric and saw it had a super tight, super small, herringbone weave. I thought, hmm, this might work well for a corset.

I already have thread to match both the off-white of the Toile and the blue of the denim so off we go.

laying out the stays

The fabric went from this,

to this.

The area is roughly 20 x 44 inches. By reducing the seam allowance from the 1/2 inch I normally use, to 3/8 inch, I can just get all the pieces to fit.

I didn't realize when I chose this fabric I would be literally cutting it so close.

fabric decided

After plenty of deliberation the fabric for the stays has been chosen. I think those of you who commented about the Carolyn Quartermaine are right, it would be fabulous. But I also think I'd better hone my sewing skills before cutting into it. I should know how to really handle silk, does it need to be backed with something? Will it pull when I sew it? How fiddly is it when sewing? Such nice fabric also means the rest of the materials must be the highest quality, maybe linen canvas underneath, and silk thread, and I haven't worked with either yet. And what about boning? Will cane or reed be what I need, or will plastic boning be better? In other words, no experimenting with the good stuff. It was a tough call. But I already have an idea which future pattern the silk script can be used for. 

So it will be Toile for this one. I made a mask and laid it over a few of the fabrics from the stash.

The print is too dense on the first one, and too small on the second. It's the right size on the third, but a bit too contrasty. But look at this one.

The motif is the right size, there is just the right intensity of color, and there is a nice balance of white space. La Petite Ferme by Waverly. This piece of fabric was made into a slip cover for a bench, one of the first things I ever sewed. It's been off the bench for quite a while now, and it seems very in the spirit of the 18th century to reuse fabric.