tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post4629418783255517597..comments2024-03-25T08:05:49.324-07:00Comments on Bridges on the Body: starting on 1844Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-90978959965219700702010-09-23T12:03:03.125-07:002010-09-23T12:03:03.125-07:00Hey Jo,
try to do it inverse:
Let the seam allow...Hey Jo, <br /><br />try to do it inverse:<br />Let the seam allowances show on the outside. If it fits, superb, you can either leave it that way and cover it with strenghtend bias-tape OR open it again and sew it properly. If you do it inverse, the advantage will be, that you can easily insert the boning under the bias tape. <br /><br />And as Mali said, best would be doing the gussets last. <br /><br />Greets, Maelis from <br />http://www.laguepiere.blogspot.comAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02659787234559994217noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-78590866473850617852010-09-20T18:58:33.696-07:002010-09-20T18:58:33.696-07:00Having done mostly corsets with gussets, don't...Having done mostly corsets with gussets, don't be afraid. I am inventing one for a young woman I work with who has the largest figure (all around) I have ever met. I did mock it up because I was without pattern help and then cut the gussets pretty deep while she wore the mockup (laced in the back with a removable set of grommets that I use for the purpose), so that the fit was right.<br />On the scary sewing-in of gussets:<br />I always sew the two layers of gusset material together by zigzagging the edges and treating the two as one. Then, i sew those gussets into the inside (lining) side of the piece by stay-stitching the edges of the gusset slit, then cutting the slit. I then press under the edges of the slit, place the gusset piece (double thick) under it and pin it in place from the top, and topstitch through edge and gusset. (Not sure this makes sense, but it's easier than lots of alternative methods of placing gussets I've tried, that include flipping pieces and whatnot.) then when sewing the front to the lining, I press the stay-stitched edges of the gusset slit under again (to the inside), place it on top of the already sewn-in gusset on the lining (wrong sides together, with gusset piece inside like the meat on a sandwich) and pin and topstitch that. It makes for a cleaner opening than any other way.<br />I also usually do a buttonhole stitch around the bottom "v" of each gusset -- it strengthens the bottom of the gusset and is period-appropriate. <br />As for the boning, I would assemble the layers separately (so you have four pieces, each paired: Left lining, Left top; right lining, right top), then put the pieces together with channels sewn for the boning. This is much easier than anything else I've seen. <br />Wow. This was long. Sorry.Jennyhttp://newpics.org/jennynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-83330924487592939952010-09-20T06:07:29.222-07:002010-09-20T06:07:29.222-07:00Mali, you read my mind. Checking the pieces agains...Mali, you read my mind. Checking the pieces against the 1880's corset is exactly how I thought I'd gauge the pattern before cutting. I image a home seamstress would have done the same, right? I didn't realize corsets could be purchased partially finished. It makes sense though, I've read jackets and skirts could so why not corsets? And fitting the gussets last? That's a great idea, thank you!Johttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16621589278068001456noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-11761723344934851652010-09-20T04:51:33.813-07:002010-09-20T04:51:33.813-07:00I third the boning on either side of the seam. I&#...I third the boning on either side of the seam. I've seen a few more "homey" corsets pictured in Valerie Steele's book "Corset" that were boned in such a way.<br /><br />Do the gussets/bust fitting last. Very very last. It was common through the Gibson age to purchase partially manufactured corsets that had the gussets separate, maybe a few of the seams not totally finished in the waist area. When you got the corset home, you would fit these areas to self. Not totally common; it was not the default standard, but it is an already attempted technique.<br /><br />If you're worried about fit, couldn't you cheat a little and check the pattern piece measurements against the final 1880's pattern?Malinoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-5970698173353262852010-09-18T16:27:06.082-07:002010-09-18T16:27:06.082-07:00I've made this pattern before! It's super ...I've made this pattern before! It's super awesome! I sewed channels for the boning so that it was sandwiched between the lining and outside. It worked really well.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-44650230162793687262010-09-18T10:34:02.595-07:002010-09-18T10:34:02.595-07:00Sarah, I have sewn a few gussets and they still in...Sarah, I have sewn a few gussets and they still intimidate me.<br /><br />Jim, double boning the seams is a good idea, and since there are very few seams I don't think it would be overkill. And I agree about your point about symmetry. I haven't made an asymmetrical corset yet because of that very reason, sculpt in what you can, pad out what's not there. Hitting that more or less fit over the bust still concerns me. Fitting the bust can be difficult!Johttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16621589278068001456noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-8838741855345558222010-09-18T08:50:49.146-07:002010-09-18T08:50:49.146-07:00A little food for thought...For the boning you cou...A little food for thought...For the boning you could use double boning at the seems which would reflect how it is illustrated on the pattern. this way you would have the seams surrounded on either side with boning and the stitching to keep the bones in would help keep that seam strong.<br /> Also isn't the Victorian corset more an exercise in symmetry as oppose to perfect fit of the wearer? the corset was cut for symmetry and what didn't fit in those measurements could be slightly padded (with either carded cotton or wool) be it in the hips or bust so that the figure would appear perfect. For the home seamstress she would only have to make sure that everything more or less fit and what didn't could be filled in to "improve" the figure. If I'm not mistaken, Valerie Steele makes reference to the padding part in "The Corset".jimnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6863349942481317862.post-51026900090079331622010-09-17T18:10:05.307-07:002010-09-17T18:10:05.307-07:00This corset is one I scaled up from the book, but ...This corset is one I scaled up from the book, but I got intimidated trying to put the gussets into my mock-up and moved on to a different pattern. I'm very excited to see how it goes for you :).Sarahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16969581295617570995noreply@blogger.com